Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got the same problem.....its the worn transfer case.

Croydon's are modding one for us with extra clutch plates in it...worth a thought

Yeah, that's what I thought, (although the box was re-built before I got the car) but I pulled it down and it's all new inside. The front whels have no problem spining and it's a consistant rear wheel then front wheel spin. So...

Mate you've really got your thing really moving, I was never going to keep draging after I ran my 10, but it's tempting now....

By the way (somone mentioned somthing.....) I'm not workshop backed, I built the thing in my car port and is tuned by a local (Andrew Kutz/Pro Automotive).

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well done xrated thats some awesome numbers for low mounts and stock bottom end, and home built is even better than all these business backed cars with piles of development and time/money poured into them. i have 100 times more respect for peoples cars who are actually done by the owner and not just cheque book racers.

(no im not having a go at anyone in particular with my comments, just the general car scene and all the braggers who done nuthing and paid someone else to do it then claim they built it and put in all the effort) :)

good luck in the future

Brad

well done!! go the low mounts!!

hmm thats got me thinkin! i,m not far off the mark.

i went out to the test & tune at willowbank last week and ran 11.1@135 mph with a 2.1 60 footer. on low mounts.

drove like a girl & wheels spun for two gears and didnt do a burn out( saving the tyres for the track day this weekend at wakefield, michelin pilots to expensive to burn up!!)

the best it's run time wise before that was 10.85@133 with a 1.85 60 footer, but power has increased since then hence the higher mile an hour.

will try and get back out soon for a better time.

cheers Russ

p.s car built by me, tuned by someone else

Edited by giant
 

By the way (somone mentioned somthing.....) I'm not workshop backed, I built the thing in my car port and is tuned by a local (Andrew Kutz/Pro Automotive).

We have more than 1 thing in common then...I built our engine in the back of a friends workshop...and built the rest of the car in a granny flat/garage...lol

croydons tune it for us.

Ive got the same problem.....its the worn transfer case.

Croydon's are modding one for us with extra clutch plates in it...worth a thought

Paul, what is Jim charging you for the transfer case mods? I know Race Pace in Melbourne are also well known for doing transfer case upgrades.

Nick

Yeah, that's what I thought, (although the box was re-built before I got the car) but I pulled it down and it's all new inside.  The front whels have no problem spining and it's a consistant rear wheel then front wheel spin. So...

Mate you've really got your thing really moving, I was never going to keep draging after I ran my 10, but it's tempting now.... 

By the way (somone mentioned somthing.....) I'm not workshop backed, I built the thing in my car port and is tuned by a local (Andrew Kutz/Pro Automotive).

Awesome work there Justin, top effort!

Paul, what is Jim charging you for the transfer case mods? I know Race Pace in Melbourne are also well known for doing transfer case upgrades.

Nick

I shudder to think what the bill may be....will not be ready until Tomi Miyamie comes back from Japan as he is the wizz on these upgrades

So true, so many times backyard engines are best!

yeah snowy was on N1's. great performance from them!

can anyone enlighten me as to the transfer case mods that can be done? i have read that there is something that can be improved , but have never found information relating to it.

cheers Russell

So true, so many times backyard engines are best!

yeah snowy was on N1's. great performance from them!

can anyone enlighten me as to the transfer case mods that can be done? i have read that there is something that can be improved , but have never found information relating  to it.

cheers Russell

Russell...is your GTR the one from Dutton last year with the big PPG stickers on it?

So true, so many times backyard engines are best!

yeah snowy was on N1's. great performance from them!

can anyone enlighten me as to the transfer case mods that can be done? i have read that there is something that can be improved , but have never found information relating  to it.

cheers Russell

From what i could gather from the translation....the transfer case has a number of clutch plates...7 i think....3 thin and 4 thick....the mod involves simply removing all the thick plates and putting thin ones in. From what i could gather, the removal of a thick plate allows you to put two thin ones in its place. So instead of having 7 plates in total you end up with 11.

Please correct me if i am incorrect...as this is something i am very "green" on

From what i could gather from the translation....the transfer case has a number of clutch plates...7 i think....3 thin and 4 thick....the mod involves simply removing all the thick plates and putting thin ones in. From what i could gather, the removal of a thick plate allows you to put two thin ones in its place. So instead of having 7 plates in total you end up with 11.

Please correct me if i am incorrect...as this is something i am very "green" on

hey thanks for that, i will have to look more closely at that the next time its, apart which will be soon.

btw great times, from you car & driving!

cheers Russ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...