Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got that Nengun deal a while back.

Very happy with it.

It's currently $4250 delivered, plus tax/duty of course :O

I think the 260-270rwkw with stock motor and GT-RS is more the exception than the rule though, and you'd need cams to get that power figure. I'd say 240-250 is more likely from what i've read and seen. They CAN put out up to 300rwkw - but if you are expecting to get 260 out of one you should prepare to possibly be a little disappointed.

For 270ish i'd go the 2835ProS; it seems to be reliably making this sort of power. If you want HKS badge, that is.

And to be fair with the GCG Hiflows - a lot of people only get 230-240rwkw with those aswell. Sure some are getting 260, but i wouldn't say it's a guaranteed figure. Maybe they have cams aswell?

IMO the GCG Hiflow and the GTRS are pretty similar in response and peak power. i did a LOT of reading and enquiring around this topic not so long ago. The GTRS possibly has more in it at higher boost (18-19psi) but i only run mine at 15psi, which seems to be what most of the hiflow guys run at, for what it's worth.

The 2835ProS is a slight step up again; bit more lag, bit more top end.

Hope that helps a little.

Edited by Beeble
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes it does, thank you beeble.

Im thinking the 2835 pro s or the gt30r are the best option for my power goal.

Does anyone on this forum have either of the two combinations with the .86 exhaust housing. Does the 2835 suffer from boost creep with an internal wastegate, or can you set whatever boost you want and not worry about it?

Im just leaning towards it now because I won't need the external wastegate, and i can hopefully low mount the HKS turbos.

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. :O

^do a search for " 2835* " and you will get at least two threads with pages of info on that turbo ; the installs with pics and any problems and issues along the way. From approx oct/nov/dec last year

how about the gt3037/3040 turbos? how much power are they good for, and do they respond as well as these turbs mentioned or is there alot of lag to go with them???, im too looking to go down this track this year some time, but im looking for more streetable car then a top end lag beast.....

I got that Nengun deal a while back.

Very happy with it.

It's currently $4250 delivered, plus tax/duty of course :O

I think the 260-270rwkw with stock motor and GT-RS is more the exception than the rule though, and you'd need cams to get that power figure. I'd say 240-250 is more likely from what i've read and seen. They CAN put out up to 300rwkw - but if you are expecting to get 260 out of one you should prepare to possibly be a little disappointed.

For 270ish i'd go the 2835ProS; it seems to be reliably making this sort of power. If you want HKS badge, that is.

And to be fair with the GCG Hiflows - a lot of people only get 230-240rwkw with those aswell. Sure some are getting 260, but i wouldn't say it's a guaranteed figure. Maybe they have cams aswell?

IMO the GCG Hiflow and the GTRS are pretty similar in response and peak power. i did a LOT of reading and enquiring around this topic not so long ago. The GTRS possibly has more in it at higher boost (18-19psi) but i only run mine at 15psi, which seems to be what most of the hiflow guys run at, for what it's worth.

The 2835ProS is a slight step up again; bit more lag, bit more top end.

Hope that helps a little.

What power figure did you make?

^thanks ;)

Made 230-240rwkw at 15psi with the GT-RS.

The tuner said he could have squeezed 250 out of it if i wanted the numbers on the dyno sheet... but i'm really just interested in a quick street car with lots of punch out of corners.

Turbo honestly is very close to stock lag-wise. Most impressed for what i wanted it for.

And to be fair with the GCG Hiflows - a lot of people only get 230-240rwkw with those aswell. Sure some are getting 260, but i wouldn't say it's a guaranteed figure. Maybe they have cams aswell?

More than likley they havnt upgraded their injectors, so 220-240rwkw is the limit with a rising rate regulator.

I have the GCG and am very happy with it. At the time there were NO other turbos that came close for the price (and I didnt want to trust the second hand ones - who honestly sells these with only 2000km since upgrade? is that made up of 4000 quarter mile passes?? )

Dont forget to factor in the cost of mounting these other turbos. GCG is truly a straight bolt up, many others require fabrication of oil/water lines and modifications to dump pipes/exhaust etc. The GCG can be done easily by the home mechanic in the driveway, some of the others are not so easy.

hey im real interested in the 2835 and was wondering how much power you can push out of them, im thinking of the nengun kit delivered to door, as im aiming for 250-300 rwkw, guys who have this amount of power, how do you put it to the ground hehehe, or dont you!

Im hoping for a turbo upgrade with response close to stock as i would like to use my 25t as a track car and daily driving street

thanks

I dunno if people are just plain lazy or not... but who knows.

I have done all the work for you (read taking 30seconds of search)

Have a read of these threads please.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=101048&hl=2835

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=101859&hl=2835

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=78983&hl=2835

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=92344&hl=2835

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=95914&hl=2835

PLEASE USE THE SEARCH BUTTON

;)

ps. this is onlt the threads on the first page of the search, there are another 5 pages of stuff

A HKS GT2835 Pro S is more suited to 270rwkw than a GT-RS is. The GT-RS would be right on its flow limits at that power level, where as the GT2835 would be able to do it no sweat. This is because the GT2835 Pro S has a bigger trim compressor (56T vs 52T) and a larger turbine (56mm vs 53mm) than the GT-RS and thus is more suitable for a RB25. The GT-RS is more suitable for a SR20.

-IMO-

Edited by Busky2k

thank you r31 nismoid for all the links - they were very helpful, I can see how you have to constantly hover over repetitive threads like this to offer this kind of advice. :D

I cannot for the life of me work that search function :D but im a stoopid head :lol: whenever I type in a phrase to search for i get the red error message..

I appreciate now what these high-flows are capable after reading bullant47's thread in particular... It seems that vg30 exhaust housing made the world of difference - definititely something to consider if the GCG option is viable for me at the time.

how much power can i put out with stock bottem end? just wondering if it will support 300rwkw on a very good tune?

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost.

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

so it can take it..

Edited by Craved
Just wanting to figure out what turbo option would be the best in terms of price, response, and overall power band.

I was originally thinking a gt30r with high-mount manifold and tIAL gate' on about 17psi should hit the mark - not too sure tho.

I was having a look on the sticky thread about the rb25 turbo upgrade, and im wanting to find out more about the hks 2835 pro s... i tried searching the forum and the net and couldnt find any rock solid specs or real-world figures.

I'm just leaning towards the internally gated turbo now because its cheaper to bung one on. But would one of these fit low-mounted in a 180sx? And also, what other mods besides the obvious ones are needed for this power. I dont really want to have to do cams unless i really need to..

Cheers, Guys B)

Hey Tuna,

I will let you know how mine goes. Power FC, injectors, cams, GT3540(better match apparently than 3040 with no worse lag), fuel pump, 48mm pro-gate, split dump with removable pipe to screamer. All getting done currently and should be ready early april.

Cheers

JB :D

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost.

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

so it can take it..

ah thats pretty good, im looking at running 300+ rwkw with a std bottem end or if it blows on the way. Im just testing what the rb25 can take really.

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost.

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

so it can take it..

How long have you been makign that pwer for? Did Bu5ters engine run for years? It ran a hell of a long time considering the use it got what seemed most Wednesday nights :P

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

Guys, it made that power but it sure-as-shit didn't make it for long...especially the way Brett used to rape it. :rolleyes:

I think the best results in terms of longevity have come from guys running a sensible tune to about 300rwkw.

HOWEVER, everyone knows that the CHEAPEST way to 260kW is to cheat

Adrian

Guys, it made that power but it sure-as-shit didn't make it for long...especially the way Brett used to rape it. :rolleyes:

It wasnt years, but it didnt die a bad death, in fact i wonder how long it would have lasted if the tuning was left alone? And the revs and runs that engine did with that power... ;)

..anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...