Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys its time to put your thinking caps on as i am in a lil prediciment at the moment and it is time to freshen up the old RB and seeing i have just put Trust T517z's and tomie poncams and a few other lil bits i feel that the bottom end is probably in need of some TLC. Just a note this is a 94model R32 GTR with supposed 103,000kms on the clock.

so here are the options and please note that both are going to cost similar amounts but i am aiming for reliability and performance (somthing that is very rare in modified cars).

Opton 1: Full rebulid on current motor meaning CP forged Pistons and ring set, R.E.V I-Beam Conrods, TOMEI metal manifold gasket kit, HI OCTANE RACING rocket cover baffles, NISSAN engine gasket kit, TOMEI sump baffle, Nissan N1 Oil Pump, ARP 2000 Series Head Bolts, RB26 Cam Cap Studs Set and an R33 crankshaft. All will be balanced and blueprinted and some sort of strenthening process applied (cant remeber what its called somthing about freezing it all then zaping it hot again. cant remeber.)

Option 2: Buy brand new N1 motor and put my turbos, cams and a new sump baffle in.

well there you have it all feed back will be taken on the chin. :O

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105167-n1-or-rebuild-rb26/
Share on other sites

Absolutely, and you can throw all the tricks in the motor when you rebuild it, like oil control and good balancing, checking clearances etc etc. 12k is a lot for a long motor that you would have to open up to get the same level of reliability as a rebuilt one

anything actually wrong with ur motor? 103kms aint too much. RB26 r a pretty damn strong machine. make any funny noises? and did u just recently do ur 100,000kms service?

he is on the limit with the turbos he has on there :(

its a matter of time, especially if he gets on the track :D

hmm ok thanks guys any more input? any one else?

rebuild,rebuild,rebuild. cant beat a nice "weatherd" block.

besides n1 engines arnt all the bees knees anyway. apart from the water and oil pump. the pistons are still cast.

sure the block is better, but are you aiming for 1000hp??

just do a rebuild. youl have a much stronger base. with all the fruit and some change to blow at the casino :lol:

n00b of the day question please:

What is the difference between long and short motor? Is a short motor just the block and the head? If you saw a long motor for sale what would expect to be buying? Includes loom/airbox/etc.?

n00b of the day question please:

What is the difference between long and short motor? Is a short motor just the block and the head? If you saw a long motor for sale what would expect to be buying? Includes loom/airbox/etc.?

im 99% sure short motor is just the bottom end complete, and long is head and bottom end without accessories (no manifolds, etc)

Guest Mashrock

make sure you get someone who can build engines and who has a rep for rb motors. and someone who knows them inside and out.

i beleive someone mentioned race pace.... there is a wonderful start. hit them up with the telephone call and see how it goes.

but i'd also go with the full rebuild. you will have alot more control over what goes into it and the finished product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...