Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1998 R34 GT-T which has failed compliance because of some rust in a strut tower, I may be selling this car straight to a parts recycler or I may dismantle it myself depending on the interest I get in the next few days.The car is standard aside from a Apexi cat back exhaust system, the wheels pictured are not available, car on the Gold Coast,Qld, price for the whole car is $11,000.00 it's for sale on ebay check it out.

All other parts available!!!!

Please let me know what you are interested in and approx what you would be prepared to pay.

Thank you!

post-26114-1139562341.jpg

post-26114-1139562379.jpg

post-26114-1139562409.jpg

post-26114-1139562453.jpg

Edited by sky88

Will buy the little plastic bit that sits at the back of the centre console near back seat passenger feet. Mine dissappeared somewhere before I got the car. Let me know what's a reasonable price.

Interested in the two little squares of plastic on the sides of the steering wheel that cover the screw holes and the wires......

Also

The aircon controls and centre vents on the centre console.

That will do.... let me know a price!

Mr Sniper911

very intertested in a few bits if you wreck it

how much for the gbox/clutch, clutch pedal box and std ecu??

also how much for the three gauge cluster

plastic side bits on the centre dash console.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...