Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anybody know if the Nismo Keys that are gettin around fit a Stagea?

I asked Nengun, and they said they don't think it will cos the Stagea is similar to the ER34, not a definate answer so i thought someone on here would know for sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/
Share on other sites

I've got a nismo key (blank) that l'm using for my other car, which supposedly fits most skyline's, so l'd be under the assumption it would be fine, as l can't see there being much difference between the stagea key barrell & the R33's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1943407
Share on other sites

Also, make sure whoever cuts it does a good job, as obviously replacing it will be a rather more expensive proposition!!!

I'd probably take it to a keycutter rather than your local hardware store who might cut maybe 2-3 keys a week...

It's not like you've just shelled out for a key that you could have bought directly from the cutter for $2 (or whatever a blank key costs nowadays).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1947889
Share on other sites

Thats exactly what i'll be doing, they should be able to use the number off my original key, and punch it out on the nismo key, i've had that done before.

Much more acurrate than cutting with the grinder when they copy a key.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1949680
Share on other sites

Mines still got the numbers on it ;)

Oh by the way, i emailed Greenline and they have confirmed that the Nismo key, that they and Nengun sell will fit the series 1 stagea, don't know about the series 2 though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1963379
Share on other sites

on the subject of keys, does anyone know how to program the chip in the key hob to enable remote locking?

i cut a blank nissan key to match the original for a spare. the hob of the key has 2 buttons: lock & unlock.

the newly cut key starts the engine fine (i was suprised!) and now I want to know how to program the chip in the key hob so remote locking works.

sometimes there is a bizarre sequence of actions like insert & remove key 5 times in 10 secs, open/shut door etc.

any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973013
Share on other sites

My cousin had a key programmed for her N16 Pulsar, can't remember where she bought it, but had it programmed by a Nissan dealer.

It might be an idea to ring your local dealer and see if they can do it, surely the sequence can't be too different between models.

Also, I believe there are some places who cut keys who are also able to do the programming for you, if you still can't manage to find the sequence or process to do it yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973084
Share on other sites

i only got one key with my car, and for some reason it's bent. it still starts the car, but i doubt i could get a key cut for it. some genious has ground off the numbers on the key as well.

to get a key cut fresh, i'm assuming i'll need to take the car to a dealer or locksmith for them to get a number off the ignition barrel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973482
Share on other sites

Cool, interesting reading chook! Wonder if it works with aftermarket ECU's, eg PowerFC?

Meh still, when I got my Mongoose alarm hooked up, it disabled the key door lock/unlock from working, good thing I got two alarm keyrings :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973580
Share on other sites

Thats exactly what i'll be doing, they should be able to use the number off my original key, and punch it out on the nismo key, i've had that done before.

Much more acurrate than cutting with the grinder when they copy a key.

Please note that size 10 keys have been discontinued.

Only some places still have the item in stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1974442
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Its amazing what u find out about Stageas.

Only today i asked my local M10 for a spare key they said they could cut.

Now i've read this. Hmmmmm! The numbers have been ground off the only key supplied.

This whole Forum is getting like the X Files!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-2121576
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...