Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Pipe + Dump Pipe (Before/After Dyno Results) - 203rwkw Stock ECU/Turbo


Recommended Posts

Okay guys as promised here are the before/after results of some cheap maintenance + the different between a cat-back and a full exhaust. The graph is shown at the bottom.

Spec's:

BEFORE - Green line on the graph

1995 GTS-T Series II

FMIC (Micks Metalcrafts)

2 Stage Boost Controller (7/12 psi)

HKS Pod filter

3" Nismo cat-back

Stock ECU

Stock Turbo

96 RON Fuel

Motul Turbo Oil done 8,000km (Ouch!)

Results:

7psi = 168 rwkw

12psi = 192 rwkw

AFTER (3mths later) - Red line on the graph

FMIC (Micks Metalcrafts)

2 Stage Boost Controller (7/12 psi)

HKS Pod filter

3" Nismo cat-back

Stock ECU

Stock Turbo

* 3" Custom 1 piece Front+Dump Pipe

* 3" Custom Hiflowed Cat

* 98 RON Fuel

* New Ryco Oil Filter

* New Ryco Fuel Filter

* Castrol Magnatec Oil done 2,000km

(Car has not been serviced by a mechanic for atleast 15,000km, Just been doing fluid changes and sheee purrrs)

Results:

7psi = 185 rwkw (Up 17rwkw)

12psi = 203 rwkw (Up 11rwkw)

Conclusion

Well as you can see some cheap maintenance and a proper full exhaust system can make quite abit of difference. The midrange power in my car is 500% better now that I have a proper full 3" exhaust. Some of the benefits I (as a driver) noticed after fitting the exhaust:

* Heaps better midrange power it almost feels like the Turbo is cutting in earlier

* Much more free flowing when you back off the gas it literally just rolls for ever, none of the sudden jerky-ness it just keels going

* No difference in the note/sound of the exhaust from the inside the car

I don't know how my car drove with just the stock standard Nissan exhaust as the previous owner had already fitted the 3" Nismo Cat-Back, but basically from a novice drivers point of view your exhaust is only as good as the weakest link and if you only have a standard front + dump pipe your absolutely kidding yourself. Go and spend the extra $750 like I did and you'll love it to bits.

I have no idea if the ECU has been re-mapped or has an addon-card. I've taken the kick panel off and everything appears to be stock, oem nissan stamp, no extra doobie-whackys etc. If you see me out and about ask me if you can see my ECU as no doubt you'll know what your looking for to work out if its stock or not coz I really have no idea.

I'm gonna keep throwing small amounts of money at this car (when I workout a new bank I can rob that isn't local) but keeping the Stock Turbo + ECU and really see what I can get out of it. Their have been HEAPS of people say that 200rwkw isn't possible from a stock ECU/Turbo well im going to get more out of this bitch you just watch me. (Hoping 210+)

I plan on changing the HKS Pod to an Apexi filter and also install the f/glass box I have and create an airduct from down on my front bar to feed the engine some much needed cold air. Maybe also 1 of those oil catch can thingy's and urmmm well I dunno i'll keep reading SAU to workout what else can be done.

If you have any suggestions throw em hear as i'd love to hear your comments.

Ben.

[MOVEIT]

dyno-203rwkw.jpg

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nice work dude :)

now that u mentioned it...i was wondering why my friends camry still glided off throttle and my 180 slowed down so fast....

time to change the rest of the exhaust system methinks ;)

interesting how fuel leaned out after dump+front without touching the ecu....

Congrats Ben

Watched your runs and reckon you should check your rears for flat spots as I saw rubber shooting off when the tyres came back onto the back rollers.

OK........ You asked me to post my result.

You must remember that I have a stock R33 with only a bleed type boost controller set, after my first run, at 10lbs (first run was pinging).

Ended up with 148.8, pretty happy with that (Wife is chuffed).

I think that you may have silenced some critics with your results, if your car has stock ECU etc.

Will watch your progress from here on.

What is the next step? ...... Anybody?

Yup same Dyno, same guys, exactly the same style runs. (www.unigroup.com.au - Excelent bunch of guys who really know their stuff)

First time was an SAU day with around 25 Skylines

Second time (Saturday) was with the Silvia guys and once again about 25+ cars.

Try installing a thermo Fan Ben,

Iv heard (so don't shoot me) but installing a thermo fan COULD increase power by 10%, we you will not have another belt running off the engine, thus less strain on engine more power @ wheels :)

Donnie

Yup thats what I was actually thinking after reading 2 or 3 threads on here and also reading over rev210's "12sec how to" thread.

If anybody can pass on some exact links, prices, before/after results etc etc it would be greatful.

Originally posted by benm

Yup thats what I was actually thinking after reading 2 or 3 threads on here and also reading over rev210's "12sec how to" thread.

If anybody can pass on some exact links, prices, before/after results etc etc it would be greatful.

Benm,

I put a thermo fan on mine about 2 weeks ago.

I picked up a second hand Davies Craig 16 inch fan for $150, and bought the thermo switch for $70.

Couldn't use the standard fan shroud cause it sits too high, and had to do a very slight mod to the fan to get it too fit.

It's a damn tight fit. The fan only JUST fit's height wise.

Over all the engine rev's easier. I wouldn't say it has more power, but it does rev easier. I 'think' this is sort of the same effect you'd get if you had a light weight flywheel, but not as dramatic (light weight fly wheel would be heaps more effect on the revs).

The temp does run a tad warmer now, but is very stable. Plus the car warms up HEAPS faster which is great for those cold mornings.

A big plus is that the engine is soooooo much quieter now.

The only down side I have noticed is when the fan is on it's damn loud. The 16 inch Davies Craig fan pumps out 2200 CFM of air which is heaps..

J

I wouldn't have thought that the removal of the standard fan and replacing with a thermo fan would have had much effect on the driveability of the car?

The fan is a viscous one so spins even if the engine is off. Those old fans on old cars that are driven by the crank would sap power but I thought viscous ones didn't :confused:

I'm probably wrong though :)

Benm, looking at your AF ratios, there is no way that is a stock ecu, either that or nissan really stuffed up 'cos OEM runs REALLY rich, even power fc when reset runs richer than that. when I had mine dynoed, it just ran straight off the bottom of the chart.

If you want 210rwkw, just up the boost to 1bar..lol

Jimih, anything that is driven by the engine will sap power to some degree or another.

Originally posted by Steve

Benm, looking at your AF ratios, there is no way that is a stock ecu, either that or nissan really stuffed up 'cos OEM runs REALLY rich, even power fc when reset runs richer than that.  when I had mine dynoed, it just ran straight off the bottom of the chart.

If you want 210rwkw, just up the boost to 1bar..lol

Jimih, anything that is driven by the engine will sap power to some degree or another.

I think steve has pointed out the missing link, the AFR's...

It does seem quite rich for a 'stock ECU'...

Should open up the ECU ben...

Originally posted by Steve

Benm, looking at your AF ratios, there is no way that is a stock ecu, either that or nissan really stuffed up 'cos OEM runs REALLY rich, even power fc when reset runs richer than that.  when I had mine dynoed, it just ran straight off the bottom of the chart.

If you want 210rwkw, just up the boost to 1bar..lol

Jimih, anything that is driven by the engine will sap power to some degree or another.

thats what i was gonna say, with my s-afc i cant even get the a/f ratios to stay so even on 12.1 when on boost like your car benm.

With stock ecu u would be getting 10.0 a/f ratios on boost!

Sure is mate and im hunting you down to get this 12sec pass. (As you have noticed in other threads). Which is why im watching your mods closely to see what I can do apart from just chucking on a bigger turbo.

I must say that moveit took my vote for best car on the day. Was immaculately presented and it made the power where others were carrying on. A very light ping was detected on the 2nd run but was nothing unusual in the 37 degree heat. When I was loading it up on the dyno before ramping it, it was pumping up to 6psi at only 2220rpm/full throttle in 4th gear. Top stuff compared to some of the monster turbo cars on the day.

Bigger turbo chargers will make more power higher up but the stock unit is impossible to beat on response and mid range puff.

I like it ;)

Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

Man wats up with ur ECU

your car is a freak

Congrats!! : )

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

I swear the 1995 ECU's are different, but I'll check when I get mine done.... One day.....

JiMiH - I wouldn't say the difference was massive, but it was noticable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...