Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone!

Today, in deep conversation about GTR performance with one of my friends the topic of thermo fans came up. I was under the impression that thermo fans were far better than using the standard radiator fans. The justification of this opinion was the fact that using the standard fan sapped a bit of power (how much KW loss I am unsure).

My question to everyone out there is; Are thermo fans a worthwhile upgrade? Or will the standard fan suffice?

Those of you who are running thermo fans I would like to hear your opinions.

Thanking everyone in advance.

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

My experience is you probably need to do a lot of extra engineering to block off all routes except through the radiator for the cooling air.

In my experience, the risk of overheating / cooking the engine is not worth the couple of extra kW you gain.

I use 2 14" davies craig thermo fans, its a tight fit. I havent made a shroud of anything for them yet but even under hard driving the temp only goes up a degree or two. On hot days stuck in traffic the temp gauge doesnt move.

My experience is you probably need to do a lot of extra engineering to block off all routes except through the radiator for the cooling air.

In my experience, the risk of overheating / cooking the engine is not worth the couple of extra kW you gain.

But in terms of efficiency, isn't the fan of minimal use when travelling faster than 60km/h?

Also, what about all the FWD cars that run electric fans from factory?

Cheers

like above, fans are used the most when sitting in traffic. They only really shine, when its 30+deg and you arnt moving.

Hell my old '79 holden used to love driving on the highway (cold temps), but go through Maccas on a hot day and it would shoot up temps :)

Thermos NEED a shroud to pull air through like the std setup, or they arnt worth much imho. Ive seen it on heaps of cars now with themos that cant keep the car cold on stop start traffic.

But in terms of efficiency, isn't the fan of minimal use when travelling faster than 60km/h?
Not arguing that. Just you need to ensure that air goes through the radiator, not out under the car. When I had a 16" DC thermo, I could get the fan to switch on on a slight uphill on the highway on a 23 C day.

The engine had seriously overheated during a track day at Winton (25 C) - within 1 lap the temp gauge was off the scale. I replaced the factory fan, and left the tell-tale light in place - 4 laps of QR (30 C) and the tell-tale lit up on the last run into the finish line.

Figured my engine wasn't worth that much risk.

Also, what about all the FWD cars that run electric fans from factory?

Cheers

That's because the engine is parallel to the radiator - the front of the engine isn't facing the radiator for a mechanical fan to work!!
That's because the engine is parallel to the radiator - the front of the engine isn't facing the radiator for a mechanical fan to work!!

Sorry, I wasn't clear with that one...

what I was getting at was, if the rad fans are shrouded correctly, elect thermos are surely as effective as mech ones...?

I have used a single 16 inch davies craig fan on the GTR. Unfortunately they draw an enourmous amount of current so you must rig them up to a thermo switch otherwise you lose the power benifit if they are on all the time. They also work within the factory shroud and reduce rotational mass to boot.

So how much is it to have a new shroud made up for the twins.Or any of the thermo fans??

The car wont overheat.If anything the fans should be set up right in the first place.Like having a thermo switch kick the fans on at optimal temp.

Question!

How much leeway should be taken into account when trying to get the engine to stay at a set goal temp.Like when should they start/kick in to be able to hold 76deg/c?

I run twin thermo's on an SR20DE+T. Since my GTR died, due to heat, I have been worried about temp.

Even with a hi-comp engine, running boost, in a drift car, so has seen a bit of stick, the thermo's are amazing.

When having the car tuned, the tuner was amazed he could not get the car over 80degrees. Hot days are not a problem and even sitting in traffic, I rarely see 75.

Also, they help cool the engine AFTER I turn the car off which I like.

I'm a big fan.... kehehe, I'm funny...

thermo fans are by far a better way to go.....its just that 90% of the setups i have seen people seem to hook them up incorrectly (hotwiring them ect)generally they pull 10amps a peice and north south oem applications????at a split second thought ford falcons,commodores have had them for years.....if i had another 10 minutes think i could think of quite a few more id reckon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...