Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats the best alarm? its a bit like asking whats the best car?

everyone has their own opionions on which ones the best, it really depends on how the installer installs the alarm,

alot of ppl had a brant nemesis installed, which is over a grand, you get a keypad start, again depends on how the installer installs it,

i just had a standard brant one installed for $500, i just called brant headquarters and booked it through them they do mobile installs so it was quiet convenient,

the guy knew the in's and out's of my R33, he does so many of them he had all the wiring and everything all ready to go before he even came to my house,

the install was very professional, i highly recommend them

go to newcastle car sound they will be able to get you one. i would recommened the mongoose with the built in turbo timer it also has 3 point immobiliser. i would budget for 300 or so dollars.

mr 32

I'll correct you on this: mongoose M60,M80 series SUPPORT THE USE of a turbo timer IT DOES NOT have one inbuilt.

and the price is incorrect. $400 for the 80 series unit with central locking connection is correct.

AutoWatch in Sydney do a nice top-of-the-line model that covers 3 points. Has glass detection, shock detection, boot/bonnet/door detection and is certified for insurance. Should cost around $500.

yeah ive gotta go with autowatch...

they have a large range of alarms to suit you, mine cost $1500 and is seriously insane... my friends cost $3000... hes paranoid :P

and they come to you! thats very handy...

I'll correct you on this: mongoose M60,M80 series SUPPORT THE USE of a turbo timer IT DOES NOT have one inbuilt.

and the price is incorrect. $400 for the 80 series unit with central locking connection is correct.

I was quoted $550 for M80 + install from Alan Jong here in sydney with ultrasonic detection instead of shock detection for the windows. Is your $400 with or without install?

id go mongoose series 80.. thats what i have.. and they hooked it up to the turbo timer.. its great.. i can give you the name of the guy if you want.. he does a good job.. and is quick installing them in skylines.. (he used to own one)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...