Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to think the R33 GTST does it in 6 secs though I think 7 is more like it (based on experience in other cars where reliable times are available). I know import magazine did it in 6.2 or 6.3 though I don't know how reliable their figures are.

Motor magazine time the R33 GTR at 5.65 to 100. They had a passenger and a full tank of fuel. They thought that it could be reduced by another half second if they were close to empty.

Edited by Smurf
I'd like to think the R33 GTST does it in 6 secs though I think 7 is more like it (based on experience in other cars where reliable times are available).  I know import magazine did it in 6.2 or 6.3 though I don't know how reliable their figures are.

Motor magazine time the R33 GTR  at 5.65 to 100.  They had a passenger and a full tank of fuel.  They thought that it could be reduced by another half second if they were close to empty.

0-100km/h quoted times depend on so many factors, which is why I only gave ballpark figures. Quoting the times from one magazine means SFA - there is no guarentee that on that day in those conditions they acheived the best the car is capable of.

Also, a seat of the pants experience is not quantifiably comparable, as so much of how quick a car feels depends on the power delivery and torque curve, rather than peak power and outright acceleration. A car with a very flat torque curve from idle to redline might feel slower than an equally quick turbo car with a huge mid range surge of torque that pins you into your seat.

For your Motor reference, remember that a few years back at PCOTY Motor clocked the Bentley Contineltal GT at over 6 seconds for 0-100km/h. Does this mean that this is the best the AWD 411kw Bentley is capable of? No.

So I stand by my previous ballpark figures.

0-100km/h quoted times depend on so many factors, which is why I only gave ballpark figures.  Quoting the times from one magazine means SFA - there is no guarentee that on that day in those conditions they acheived the best the car is capable of. 

Also, a seat of the pants experience is not quantifiably comparable, as so much of how quick a car feels depends on the power delivery and torque curve, rather than peak power and outright acceleration.  A car with a very flat torque curve from idle to redline might feel slower than an equally quick turbo car with a huge mid range surge of torque that pins you into your seat. 

For your Motor reference, remember that a few years back at PCOTY Motor clocked the Bentley Contineltal GT at over 6 seconds for 0-100km/h.  Does this mean that this is the best the AWD 411kw Bentley is capable of?  No.

So I stand by my previous ballpark figures.

I agree that quoting one magazines time is no indication of what the car can necessarily do though it is what it did do on that day. So it is capable of what I have quoted. I have never seen any other reliable source provide a figure.

You are right in that a seat of the pants feel is not necessarily accurate. The cars that I compare it to have flatter torque curves than the Skyline and feel very similar in speed. Given that these cars in numerous other tests do it in around 6.8 seconds and using what you have said above, this would indicate that these cars are slightly faster than the GTS25T.

Don't get me wrong, I would like to think the GTS25T can do it in around 6secs (as I own one), I just don't think they can. Maybe I just own a slow one or I can't drive.

im guessing that the figures mentioned for the gtr are with dumping the clutch at 7K rpm. I think if you had to be nice to the car the r33 gtr would be in the low 6s when stock. This is also what autospeed found. The gts25t would be easily in the 7s (its not a quick car when stock).

well paul has done 0-100km/h in 4.88 seconds with maybe 180-190rwkw in a 33 GTS-t...so id say a GTR with more power and 4wd can beat that

Didnt really answer his question the key word here was stock. There are so many factors involded in times and remember when they are tested they use professional drivers and the give the car its all.

im guessing that the figures mentioned for the gtr are with dumping the clutch at 7K rpm. I think if you had to be nice to the car the r33 gtr would be in the low 6s when stock. This is also what autospeed found. The gts25t would be easily in the 7s (its not a quick car when stock).

5 flat with a 7k clutch dump, maybe even just under with a decent clutch and sticky tyres.

gtst probably under 7 but not by much

I easily managed to do 0-100 in 6.5sec in my totally stock standard '98 R33 GTS25t (other than wheels/springs)....I didn't do a tyre/clutch frying launch either.

This was measured with a Greddy turbo timer in 0-100km/h attack mode (it's hooked up to ecu speed sensor).

So I definitely believe they're capable of low 6's in standard trim...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...