Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol @ the baron ...

I have tiny deformed hands and i still have trouble .... after getting it to release i proceeded to burn the hell out of my hands with the hot fluid while spashin around a bit of anti rust system so the rb26 dont rust :(... that was my first attempt ...

I do wonder how the service centers would do it with out spillage as its a doesy!

damn thing is a tight fit aye.. first time i did mine i cut my hand deep too and i got a scare from my GTR. once ur get it loose. (i use 3 prong oil filter wrench on 3/8 rachet) u can use rubber gloves and attack it that way. once off jiggly it so that the hole is facing up and stick ur finger in the hole and fish it out pass the hicas crap.

im actually doin mine tomorrow as i found a spare filter in the garage. rec. dnt use Ryco.. the rubber seal ripped on mine.!

Mine got stuck too, so after draining the oil, I got a screwdriver and carefully hammered it into the filter itself (careful not to hit anything else) That allowed me to get the leverage to loosen it. This was on a R33 GTS-t however, not sure if you have room to do it on the RB26

i am not a fan of ryco filters. seen a few problems occur with them. i use to just use genuine nissan ones, now i use wanky nismo or trust ones... but only because i bought a shitload in japan, and with the remote mount they are on display.

i would just use the nissan ones. and the 8100 is ok. should be fine.

I don't have any problem getting them off, i use 2 hands from the top if it doesn't come loose i use a wrench, no problem there .

After doing that many that i lost count i worked a way of not spilling a drop of oil . I hate spilling oil because it sits on the top of the diff and because of the fins its very hard to wipe so i use to hit it with the steam cleaner .

I got a plastic bottle with a little bigger diameter than the oil filter and a little longer ( 145a, i dont like using the smaller ones, gtrs dont hold enough oil as it is ), i sliced the bottle in 2 halves. I use one half and i placed under the filter fitting before i take the filter out ( i loosened it say 1/2 a turn first but still no oil cames out ), when i undo the filter the 1/2 plastic bottle catches the oil that spills out . I turn the old filter upright and carefuly take it out, i don't take the half bottle out until i install the new filter back in.

I usualy take the diff breather off to make it a bit easier before i start .

I undo the sump plug first and let the oil come out for about 1/2 hour by then the filter is cold so i don't burn my hands .

I'm still trying to work a way of filling the filter totaly before i put in so far i only half fill it, when i work out how to fill it to the top i'll let you guys know too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...