Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put me down for one for an r33 thanks. aslo noticed the parts number in ur post and noltec brochure are different. ;)

also interested in the front control arm bushes and camber kit when that gets around.

Edited by (B1) MR_fanny
  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Added.

I might have enough orders to place the r33 order now guys, so i'll be shooting off pm's in a few days about payment.

Others who are interested, let me know asap, otherwise you will have to wait until there is another batch of 5 people interested to get this low low price ;)

Seriously, these go for like $195 from UAS, and $266 from Noltec, so $155 is a damn good price.

Payment required for the r33/s13 bushes now guys. Others are waiting for theirs :D

Anyone else can still get in on this now. I may not do this again in the future at this price, so get in quick.

Edited by Bl4cK32

The whiteline versions are not complete bush replacements.

They are pineapples that simply compress the old bush to help stiffen up the std bush.

These bushes are 'stiff' as standard, you can then use the pineapples to angle the cradle down to help with traction.

yer, im not sure Whiteline actually make replacement subframe mounts, just pinapples as Cubes has mentioned.

Most people fit the pinapples as a bandaid solution to fix the flex in the rear subframe instead of replacing the oem mounts which these replace.

Or people tend to fit them damn alloy bush ones, which just crush the std bush down to make the rear subframe sit metal on metal, which aint good for NVH in the car.

These can be fitted along with the pinapple type to angle the cradle for traction, as also mentioned :P

edit: im keeping the gb open for a tad longer to get final numbers up, but it will be closing soon.

Edited by Bl4cK32
yer, im not sure Whiteline actually make replacement subframe mounts, just pinapples as Cubes has mentioned.

Most people fit the pinapples as a bandaid solution to fix the flex in the rear subframe instead of replacing the oem mounts which these replace.

Or people tend to fit them damn alloy bush ones, which just crush the std bush down to make the rear subframe sit metal on metal, which aint good for NVH in the car.

These can be fitted along with the pinapple type to angle the cradle for traction, as also mentioned :P

edit: im keeping the gb open for a tad longer to get final numbers up, but it will be closing soon.

So I don't have to get the pinapples if I don't want to. If I simply want to make sure the subframe remains rigid under load then that's all I need?

So have you guys bought seperate pinapples to adjust traction then?

Edited by Freebaggin

Nah you dont have to buy the pinapples if you dont want to. People fit them to stiffen up the mounting of the subframe to the car (which is what replacing these mounts does anyway). So you really just need these by themselves.

Im going to fit the pinapples as well while the subframe is out to set it up for traction. Basically i want to do all i can while the subframe is out to save having to drop it out again later.

The pic below shows where the pinapples go, these bushes are actually fitted to the subframe (see pic on first page) You need 4 small ones for traction.

post-3692-1142828426.png

i just got my pine apples today! i got them from otmotto, ben ellis advised me to use the 2large with cuts for the front and 2 small for the back for the traction set-up

Nah you dont have to buy the pinapples if you dont want to. People fit them to stiffen up the mounting of the subframe to the car (which is what replacing these mounts does anyway). So you really just need these by themselves.

Im going to fit the pinapples as well while the subframe is out to set it up for traction. Basically i want to do all i can while the subframe is out to save having to drop it out again later.

The pic below shows where the pinapples go, these bushes are actually fitted to the subframe (see pic on first page) You need 4 small ones for traction.

OK, I'm convinced, what next? Will be at Adel 500 for the next 4 days so maybe Monday I'll organise payment.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...