Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noltec Rear subframe mounts

I will be commencing a group buy as of now for the following items :

N92447 - R32 & R34 rear subframe mounts

N92446 - R33, S13-S15 Sylivia, 300zx Z32 rear subframe mounts.

These are replacing the rubber / silicon filled rear mounts that wear over time and cause movement in the rear subframe.

My r32 is a street driven car and under load (on boost) you can feel the rear end sort of squirm around.

People normally fit the alloy type rear subframe bush, which just crushes down the factory worn item, resulting in increased vibration, and noise through the car as the cradle is now metal on metal.

You can fit these noltec items, and still fit the typical "pinapple" urethane type bushes to angle the cradle for drift or traction.

below is attached an expalnation of what i mean.

Fitting of these can be done in two ways :

1. workshop can fit for you

2. remove rear cradle yourself, use a holesaw to cut out old bushes, then whack these in.

Or do a search :D

Noraml RRP on these is $266 from Noltec.

If we can secure 5 buyers for each, i can do 1 set (4 bushes) for $155

Im in Adelaide, so pickup is available or postage will be +$6 around Australia.

If more than 5 order i will place the first 5 order in straight away, and start a new list then the next list will wait till i have 5 on that one and so on.

End date : 2 months from now = 21-4-06

thanks ;)

post-3692-1140498314.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106735-noltec-rear-subframe-mounts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmm i kind of get the picture of how these are fitted do you know of any links to show how to fit them>? i was going to get some pine apples (otomoto BEE R ones) as well might as well put me down aswell for r32.

cheers simon

Edited by gt-t_r34
none for R31 GTS-X?

Noltec dont list them in their parts list i have. sorry :P I can get other stuff for the r31 though.

Im in Adelaide I will take a set for the S13 what do I need to do, any deposits needed and when will I be able to get them?

Ill add your name to the list, and when i have 5 orders i will ask for payment, then i can place the order. Once i have them, i will let you know, and you can pickup or i can post.

So if you know anyone else with a s13-s15 or r33 tell em to buy a set, and i can send the order off when i have 5 orders

dunno what the deal is, the r32 and r34 use the same replacement, but r33 uses the same as s13- s15 and z32.

I could email the supplier and find out if your really keen :P

Yeah that would be cool - if it's not too much hassle.

I've purchased these mounts (pictured below), and have been told they fiy S13/S14/Z32, I assumed they would fit my R32 as well. If it looks like they wont, I may have to jump onto your group buy.

Ryno

post-3204-1140755014.jpg

Those black ones, look like a solid metal replacement for the std rubber bushes.

If they are, it will be a noisy ride :D

Dont know if they are the same as the ones Noltec sell. What are they made of?

The advertising for them states: "They are machined from virtually unbreakable Duravar® UHMW Polyethylene. These mounts are much harder than polyurethane or rubber and will never wear out."

If they fit my car, they should work well... They have no metal parts to them, so they should have minimal road noise.

B1- i can get any parts that Noltec offer for around 20% off their retail.

If i can secure 5 orders of the same item i can get a total of 40% off.

For the rear they make upper control arm bushes (camber kit).

Fronts they do control arm bushes, radius (caster) bushes/rods, engine mounts etc.

Let me know what your interested in :)

edit/ i'll look into doing another group buy this week containing control arm bushes and camber kits etc.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...