Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol

We will have to wait and see

is that a dare is it

anyways if all goes well ill pickup a standard motor in 2 days and

be back there next week

if not

then yeah we will never know and just have to wait for my new motor

And ill post picks of WHY it lost COMP tomorrow

It makes sense to not bother with forged internals etc. Look how he did with a stock motor. For most people you could go a little conservative compared to what he's getting and be happy for many years!! Unless you are after huuuuge no's that aren't street useable. Good luck with the next stocker..

Rb30 block would be nice

Edited by benl1981
  • 3 weeks later...

Thread revival from hell!

The pistons are all perfect, they have a bit of carbon build up but not excessive. The ring lands are all perfect, and the crowns show no signs of detonation either.

The reason why it was low on compression...... bend rod!! Hah

  • 1 year later...

I don't know if this is meaningful input to this but I was running 400rwhp from a T04e (.56 trim, .84 a/r P trim) for around 6 months, till I put on this Holset HX35/40. Now I'm running 1.5 bar (22psi) and I haven't dyno'd it yet, but it's at least 70-80hp faster measured with my super accurate butt dyno :laughing-smiley-014: . I've never even had the valve covers off the motor (except to paint them), stock HG, cams, intake manifold, TB, etc. I really think it's all in the tune--and I'm running around 12.1-12.3:1 air fuel with ex temps around 800-850c at the highest.

  • 2 months later...
I don't know if this is meaningful input to this but I was running 400rwhp from a T04e (.56 trim, .84 a/r P trim) for around 6 months, till I put on this Holset HX35/40. Now I'm running 1.5 bar (22psi) and I haven't dyno'd it yet, but it's at least 70-80hp faster measured with my super accurate butt dyno :laughing-smiley-014: . I've never even had the valve covers off the motor (except to paint them), stock HG, cams, intake manifold, TB, etc. I really think it's all in the tune--and I'm running around 12.1-12.3:1 air fuel with ex temps around 800-850c at the highest.

Nice going.

  • 10 months later...

Mine's still kicking. I'm full HX40 (19cm ex housing) which is a 69lb/min compressor at 1.7 bar, now with 264 cams, 1.2mm HG, RB26 ITB's, and still the same stock bottom end. We still don't have a dyno anymore on island (well, it's still there, but they won't run it--it's a dynojet anyways). I ran out of Z32 MAF a LONG time ago, so we moved it to 100mm piping. I've got 860cc no name injectors that are sitting just over 70% duty cycle with a/f's right around 12:1. You can do the math on that. I run with some of the faster 2wd guys here on the island with built RB26's and smaller T88's (in S13's), but I think they have a pretty rich/retarded tunes judging by the fireballs they shoot and the fact I'm hanging with them.

The guy that owns the shop I hang out at put a Holset HX52 (90lb/min) on his stock bottom end RB25 with a completly built head (solid lifter, tomie everything biggest cams they make for the 25, yada yada) and he stopped turning up the boost at 1.5 bar because he was tickling 95% injector duty cycle on 740's. He also just had his twin plate start slipping on him, so we haven't had a lot of time to play with it yet.

I can't remember if it was this thread or the other where somebody was questioning the hp guesses I was making with my old set up due to my 122mph trap speeds (with full weight--subs, full interior, random crap in the trunk, etc.), so I won't make any here. I'll see if I can get the Gtec from my buddy again and get some new trap speeds, but I spin even in 3rd on 275 nittos, so I think that's skewing my speeds a good bit.

*edit--I do is 4-5 quarter mile'ish runs a week on average with the occasional playing around in the twisties, so I'm not road course racing it all the time like a lot of you guys. That might help longevety.

Edited by Cjmartz2k
The guy that owns the shop I hang out at put a Holset HX52 (90lb/min) on his stock bottom end RB25

"Holset HX50-55

For engines of 10 to 15 litres capacity the Holset HX50 and HX55 are specified on some of the world's premium rated heavy-duty engines at up to 470 bhp. "

funny..

Those displacement and hp figures are on diesel engines spinning to 3k rpm max. A good ballpark firgure for diesel turbo to gasoline application is mulitply by 2 :D

If you have any doubts about holset turbo's on gasoline engines, google "holset DSM" for a wealth of info specifically on guys running them on 4G63's (Evo motors). This thread is about what RB25's will do though, and not holset turbos, so I don't want to sidetrack the thread to much going on about them. PM me or start a new thread if you want to go into them further.

Those displacement and hp figures are on diesel engines spinning to 3k rpm max. A good ballpark firgure for diesel turbo to gasoline application is mulitply by 2 :D

If you have any doubts about holset turbo's on gasoline engines, google "holset DSM" for a wealth of info specifically on guys running them on 4G63's (Evo motors). This thread is about what RB25's will do though, and not holset turbos, so I don't want to sidetrack the thread to much going on about them. PM me or start a new thread if you want to go into them further.

I believe you, I just thought it was a chuckle.

my god LNEMUP has some temper issues. so many ppl giving decent input and saying nice work and all he did was get the shits.

That's not ALL he did. LOL! Don't know how long before we hear from him again. I don't think they have many computers there.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...