Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/gals

As the topic states I just got defected and have to go for a full inspection.

I was hoping that I could get some advise from you all as to what I might get done for.

My car is a 94 gts-t r33. It has 248wrkw with the following mods:

PARTS LIST REMOVED

Thats all I can think of right now.

If you guys can give me any suggestions that might help that would be great.

Edited by GunMetalR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107003-just-got-defected-no-number-plate/
Share on other sites

Make sure your car is legal before you go over... the little mods like the fuel pump, coils, clutch dont make a difference. Specially make sure your numberplate is on.. because if you had that on chances are you wouldnt have to waste your time going over dickson. Generally speaking anyway.

Goodluck.

Dayne

Prepair yourself for the event.... Remember to take the lube and be ready to bend over when they say so.

Nah really from my encounters with them they dont really have a clue whats factory and whats not on imports, so you shouldnt have too much trouble.

Step 1: Remove the listing of parts on your car. There is one RTA inspector who frequents these forums, so youve just given them a clean list of parts on the car.

Step 2: I believe RTA provides a complimentary tube of vaseline for your personal comfort

Step 1: Remove the listing of parts on your car. There is one RTA inspector who frequents these forums, so youve just given them a clean list of parts on the car.

Step 2: I believe RTA provides a complimentary tube of vaseline for your personal comfort

Just what he said. Maybe it's time to see an engineer for some bits,and just remove others...except for the rego' plate that everyone knows you should have two of. Not to crucify you publicly,but there isn't too many better ways to get yanked than not having one of said plates missing...

They cant not Find it, its located on the side of my cold air box. I think I am going to put the stock boost controller in for the test.

Heh, um let me clarify.

The dude would have defected me if he'd found the in cabin "boost controller thing with the pretty lights on it". He had no idea what he was looking at in the engine bay. :lol:

I dont know what its like up there and how clued up the local rta is, but if you can do the labour yourself I would say better to be safe than sorry.

Good Luck

(what the hell were you doing without a number plate anyway :) )

damn i didnt know that :P i would have thought they would prefer a car running the correct afr's... better than running rich as and polluting the air :P

Leigh

Boost controller alters emissions from the vehicle, its illegal. Same with SAFC, same with ECU's etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...