Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/gals

As the topic states I just got defected and have to go for a full inspection.

I was hoping that I could get some advise from you all as to what I might get done for.

My car is a 94 gts-t r33. It has 248wrkw with the following mods:

PARTS LIST REMOVED

Thats all I can think of right now.

If you guys can give me any suggestions that might help that would be great.

Edited by GunMetalR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107003-just-got-defected-no-number-plate/
Share on other sites

Make sure your car is legal before you go over... the little mods like the fuel pump, coils, clutch dont make a difference. Specially make sure your numberplate is on.. because if you had that on chances are you wouldnt have to waste your time going over dickson. Generally speaking anyway.

Goodluck.

Dayne

Prepair yourself for the event.... Remember to take the lube and be ready to bend over when they say so.

Nah really from my encounters with them they dont really have a clue whats factory and whats not on imports, so you shouldnt have too much trouble.

Step 1: Remove the listing of parts on your car. There is one RTA inspector who frequents these forums, so youve just given them a clean list of parts on the car.

Step 2: I believe RTA provides a complimentary tube of vaseline for your personal comfort

Step 1: Remove the listing of parts on your car. There is one RTA inspector who frequents these forums, so youve just given them a clean list of parts on the car.

Step 2: I believe RTA provides a complimentary tube of vaseline for your personal comfort

Just what he said. Maybe it's time to see an engineer for some bits,and just remove others...except for the rego' plate that everyone knows you should have two of. Not to crucify you publicly,but there isn't too many better ways to get yanked than not having one of said plates missing...

They cant not Find it, its located on the side of my cold air box. I think I am going to put the stock boost controller in for the test.

Heh, um let me clarify.

The dude would have defected me if he'd found the in cabin "boost controller thing with the pretty lights on it". He had no idea what he was looking at in the engine bay. :lol:

I dont know what its like up there and how clued up the local rta is, but if you can do the labour yourself I would say better to be safe than sorry.

Good Luck

(what the hell were you doing without a number plate anyway :) )

damn i didnt know that :P i would have thought they would prefer a car running the correct afr's... better than running rich as and polluting the air :P

Leigh

Boost controller alters emissions from the vehicle, its illegal. Same with SAFC, same with ECU's etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...