Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If anyone lives in melbourne then they would've seen the amount of rain that was pissing down this afternoon, with puddles in some streets as deep as 1/2 a metre :( , this is what ill be worrying about when i get my skyline lol.

hehe might be selling my manual s2 r33 end of year.. Basically stock, with a few minor mods here and there.. But still on stock boost.. Car is in perfect condition.. hmm when you thinkin of buying yours?? Might sell mine say nov or dec sometime.. But still thinking about it, not yet sure at this stage..

Well i might get it off my brother's friend in the next few months, but otherwise yeah sometime between mid this year towards the end.

Just make sure u get some deacent tyres. My 33 came with some crappy Woosong (or something like that) 205 tyres that had stuff all grip, 2nd gearies in the dry no worries...... & 3rd in the wet. I went to go around a corner 1 day in 3rd doing less than 1500 revs where it's got next to no power & the thing still let go on me big time. Since I put my fat 275 yokahamas on the rear I have next to no trouble with wet weather grip.

If your worried, get a decent set of hoops, u don't have to necessarily upgrade the width, just the quality. Stuff getting an auto

I agree, it can be a handful in the wet. When I first got my car it came with stock wheels and I let my friend drive it. He owns a type R so he's used to NA response and not turbo boost so when I let him drive it, being wet at the time he fishtailed and nearly clipped the kerb on a straight road. I crapped my pants, I'm sure he did too. All it had was an exhaust and filter at the time

The stock tyres and rims are now on my dad's 626 lol and two weeks later i got bigger and wider wheels

Edited by Gengis

Nothing more scarey than FWD auto in the wet. Like has been said before, you going up a hill or something, IT decides its time to drop back, suddenly its spinning.

When I got my GTR, I was so so scared... as soon as I turned the key, I forgot why I was scared, its just a normal car. Its doesn't have 200+rwkws at idle! You give it light load and drive it gentle, your 626 will beat it easy. They are monsters that come onto boost for no reason!

Infact, if you start thinking you'll be scared, you'll end up disappointed... they aren't that fast. If you hit a corner at 100, you'll die, but thats the same for any car. These ones just get up to and back down from speed quicker.

i went from driving a 1990 auto N/A 2.2ltr TX5 (manual license) for 2 years, to a manual S2 R33 GTS-T, and had no problems. hadn't really touched a manual at all in that 2 year period...literally MAYBE one time for a short drive, but i picked it up again pretty quickly (didnt stall or bunnyhop etc at all on the first drive, which was an hour drive through the city etc on the way home from compliance) then the next week or so was just fine tuning gear changes etc....

but as others have said, they aren't THAT powerful in stock form...sure you can kill yourself, but you'll have to work at it...lol

do not buy an auto skyline. you will regret it

Go a manual dude, as said... You'll regret it later if you go an auto. As with hitting boost in the wet... Have fun with it!! Familiarise yourself with the car, familiarise yourself with other manual cars. All it takes is practice, and we all know, practice makes perfect.

Be grateful you have a car that hits boost :D - Slippery When... EVER!! - :D

Edited by Savage Bliss

No boost is determined by both.

The higher the rpm the harder it becomes to control the boost level.

Low rpm there is little exhaust flow to spin up the turbo so there will be little boost no matter how much throttle input there is.

Stock boost they feel like N/A like so nothing to worry about. :geek:

So boost is determined by the amount of throttle your foot puts down, not how many revs?? Can someone explain how it works in more detail. My car arrives this month so would love to know before i hit a telegraph pole! :rolleyes:

don't stress mate. i didnt understand it all fully before i drove my car...but if you're sensible, and dont drive like an idiot as soon as you get in, you'll be fine.

as mentioned, stock they're not slow...but they're hardly animals waiting to slap a pole

I believe the word for it is tractable. :happy:

I called my insurance company quite some time ago to question cover should my other half drive the car on her L's.

The young bloke on the other end said.... 'No, you shouldn't let her drive as those cars are too dangerous for an L plater'

I said.. 'its relatively stock, it doesn't get going unless you really get stuck up it with a few rev's, even then its hardly an animal'

he said... 'look mate, i've driven those things and they are damn quick, i know'

I shut up at this point thinking what a........ yer... :rolleyes:

He had no idea.

Its wasn't the law i was concerned about it was their policy.

Being a 'performance' car where under 25's are not allowed to drive the car I was concerned that she would not be covered on her L's.

My other half is 27, yes she was slack getting her license but did get 100% in the test when she went for it. :rolleyes:

So as she is over 25 she is covered to drive the car, L's or not. :happy:

Stock boost they feel like N/A like so nothing to worry about. :laugh:

only because u used to it :happy:

still remeber the first time i take a ride in a stock ca18det auto S13 with 3 people in car

once the turbo kick in, i felt: O...!! this is SO quick!!!!

not anymore now :rolleyes:

In regards to the losing control of the skyline I was more or so referring to this street during peak hour where you need to merge into the main road from a standstill on a hill (Cnr Highbury and Springvale road). The main road is 80 km/h so you need to be quick to merge in and there’s always impatient driver’s behind you :laugh:

I’ve nearly lost control once in my 626 in the wet, with massive under steer when trying to merge fast, I reckon if I had been in the skyline I would of done a complete 180. lol

yeah don't worry about stalling mate, i've thought a couple of times i had but it comes back from the dead if your quick back on the clutch. I couldn't belive it first time. As for how hard they are to drive, simple.

  • 2 years later...
Automatic gearboxes are the devil.

+1! I know this thread is dead, but for anyone in future interested. I have first hand experience with this. My R33 gtst auto made 165kw at the wheels. In a straight line she was awesome!

One day one a 90' left turn, sun totally blocking my vision, misjudged the corner, she decides to gear down and hit full boost, 13 psi. I sh#t myself and she goes sideways. I miss 3 poles by a miracle of GOD and bury it in the sand 50 metres from the corner on the other side of the road.

Rear diff stuffed, hicas stuffed, left rear quarter stuffed amongst other things. Bottom line, high powered auto on bends = bad news for inexperienced driver. BE CAREFUL GUYS, PLEASE!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...