Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

I am soon to rip the head off, replace valve springs, headgasket and oil restrictors.

I attempted to remove the oil restrictors out of a spare rb30e I have in the shed. I failed. :(

How are these removed? Is it possible to remove and install new without removal of the motor/sump?

I have seen other (non rb) blocks where the oil restrictor have a thread located in the top section of the restrictor, this allows easy removal.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107288-removal-of-block-oil-restrictors/
Share on other sites

Hi ppls,

I am soon to rip the head off, replace valve springs, headgasket and oil restrictors.

I attempted to remove the oil restrictors out of a spare rb30e I have in the shed. I failed. :)

How are these removed? Is it possible to remove and install new without removal of the motor/sump?

I have seen other (non rb) blocks where the oil restrictor have a thread located in the top section of the restrictor, this allows easy removal.

;)

Drill and tap.

Figured as much.

My main concern with drill and tap is leaving metal filings in the block.

I could grab a hoover or something as I drill or make an attachment to fit down the galley after its removed to suck out any possible filings but its always a worry.

Any suggestions?

Hopefully I don't have to report that engine failure Geoff. :)

I'm going to rip the ones out of the vl block and see how far I can push the old restrictors down. If the galley doesn't taper or do anything silly I will push the old ones down and simply drop the new ones on top.

While on the topic.. I've been told the RB26 Tomei headgasket kits from nengun come with the restrictors. RB25/rb20 doesn't. Yet they have similiar price.

Is this really the case or do the tomei restrictors have to be purchased seperately?

Either way I'll drop nengun an email and post back my findings.

Hopefully I don't have to report that engine failure Geoff. :)

I'm going to rip the ones out of the vl block and see how far I can push the old restrictors down. If the galley doesn't taper or do anything silly I will push the old ones down and simply drop the new ones on top.

While on the topic.. I've been told the RB26 Tomei headgasket kits from nengun come with the restrictors. RB25/rb20 doesn't. Yet they have similiar price.

Is this really the case or do the tomei restrictors have to be purchased seperately?

Either way I'll drop nengun an email and post back my findings.

Can you use a 26 gasket with a RB25DE head?

and the r32 rb26 head doesnt run vct either. oil/water galleries would be similar to r32 rb25de? Cylinder size is the same...

Solid lifters are always a bonus.....

Wonder if i should sell my fully rebuilt and ported head, and go the gtr head....? Depends...

and the r32 rb26 head doesnt run vct either. oil/water galleries would be similar to r32 rb25de? Cylinder size is the same...

Solid lifters are always a bonus.....

Wonder if i should sell my fully rebuilt and ported head, and go the gtr head....? Depends...

This is where i am confused. I can get VG30DETT lifters for lsightly cheaper then what Tomei sell their kits for. It would be cool to run 260/10.25mm cams.

The theroy say that solid cams will make more power because they accelerate open/closed quicker, they are lighter etc. But the cost of doing it, only to have to shim/long term maintenance etc...well????

If i spend the same money on the combustion chamber and ports, and stuck with the 260/8.5mm cam ( a cheaper option),how much less power, if any, would it make????

Does having large lift cams hurt velocities/cylinder filling at low rpm like large duration cams???

oh, and this is on topic as ,umm, because when you run oil restrictors, ...well the hydraulic lifters also use oil :P

Hi all , correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the oil restrictors made of brass ? I seem to remember AJ removing one from an L series block by screwing a self taping screw into it and pulling it out with a slide hammer . I dont think the interference fit is real tight .

Cheers A .

Does having large lift cams hurt velocities/cylinder filling at low rpm like large duration cams???

I think this may answer some q's Roy.

http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1132

Especially the 2nd to last paragraph, that says : Synchronizing lift with piston speed keeps airflow at optimal velocities through the ports

Awesome.

I'm a happy man. :P

I've since discovered the tomei restrictors are 1.5mm.

RB30 are 1.8mm

RB26 are 2mm

RB20/25 are 2.4mm

Thanks.

One last question... Does the rb26 tomei headgasket kitcome with 2 restrictors?

Running the hydraulic head I need to keep the two.

Awesome.

I'm a happy man. ;)

I've since discovered the tomei restrictors are 1.5mm.

RB30 are 1.8mm

RB26 are 2mm

RB20/25 are 2.4mm

Thanks.

One last question... Does the rb26 tomei headgasket kitcome with 2 restrictors?

Running the hydraulic head I need to keep the two.

nope, they come with one. They are a very easy thing to make though.

No drama's... I am able to get my hands on another easy.

Proengines.. Whats your view on 2 x 1.5mm restrictors?

Obviously I won't hold you to anything you say as I doubt any one has actually tested, so its an unknown.

But technically speaking, does the hydraulics really need much more oil over its big brother solid?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...