Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB30/25 or 30/26 seem to be the flavour of the month due to making such good results with small outlay (in some cases), So I've been thinking what else is possible.

and how are they done?

what sort of dollars?

rb24 is made using what?

is the rb20 head usefull on anything other than the rb20 bottom end?

what else, if anyhting, can the rb26 bottom end be used for?

can an RB25 head be bolted to an rb26 bottom end? what would be the end result (obvisouly not as good as the rb26, but would it be better than a stock rb25?)

what happens if an RB25 bottom end is put undre an RB26 head?

can the rb20 bottom end be used with any other head and what would the outcome be?

I'd usually PM this sort of crazy questions to SK, but he probably gets annoyed with all my dumb ideas :happy:

so now you can all be part of it..

:D

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/
Share on other sites

tommy kaira made the m30, a rb30de which used an rb20de red top head and rb30e bottom end. the result was 230hp which was put into quite a few r31's that they made

christ that must breathe like crap

i'd also be keen to see/know if a 25 or 26 head can go on a 20 block

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1990092
Share on other sites

GTST who cares is a RB25 head fits on an RB26 block? it would be a waste of time.

same thing goes the other way around.

also only good combo from an RB20 is RB20. or the RB22, 23 24 ideas, but both still use RB20 head and RB20 block.

RB26 head on RB26 block is the best one i reckon, but certainly RB25 and RB26 heads on RB30 blocks have their merits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1993787
Share on other sites

Has anyone on here actually experienced any of these motor combos on the road? Are they a worth while venture (more torque, better top end etc.)? I ask because I actually have a lot of what is required to build one if my motor goes pop and was keen to hear some real world, seat of your pants driving experiences (street and track). SK, you seem to have built a few. What was your initial impression of a well set up and tuned combo and which do you think would be the best for 90% street, 10% track

Cheers in advance :D

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994034
Share on other sites

I think you'd have to have time and money to burn for some of these combinations, but my favourite is a chopped Rb30 block with an Rb20 crank, Rb30 rods & pistons, and Rb25 head.

Would be a bit under 2.5litre and with those long rods should have great combustion properties as well as revving like crazy.

But stacked against all that work, the Rb30det looks the go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994195
Share on other sites

I think going to the 2.5L capacity sounds most appealing using an Rb25 turbo bottom end with an R32 RB25 N/A head. allowing all your Rb20 auxiallaries to be reused with a remaped standard computer! Giving you the extra capacity with out the much larger outlay of a full RB25 swap.

My 2c anyways :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994201
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...