Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an R31 with a series 2 RB25DET and a much larger than standard turbo. (hits about 4,000)

I get about 400 km's to 60 litres (i think it's 60 litre tank)

With booting here and there of course :D

I'm taking it easy on this tank so i wanna see how far it will go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174521
Share on other sites

My (english conversion) owner's manual says my R33 has a 65 litre tank.... however, I can not recall putting any more than 52-53 litres in here.

Oh, I get 300kms per tank - which I think is crap economy (I have some mods tho)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174544
Share on other sites

i only ever get about 52L in there but then again the fuel light is never ever on. i think it was on once and even then i still put about 53L in there.

and I am sure that the fuel light will come on with at least 8L in there so I am thinking 60L tank.

I get about 350 off a tank. but i can always smell fuel so yeah maybe there is a leak of sorts.

shockingly guzzly car innit!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174596
Share on other sites

for my R32 (rb20det) whenever i fill it up from when the light is on.. it gets 55L in there.

City driving i get about 300-350 per tank.

Country is around 450+

then thrashing it just kills it.. dont expect to get good economy with the boost coming on like mad every set of lights.

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174605
Share on other sites

My owners handbook says the R33 has a 62 litre tank. The most I've put in was 59.8 litres (running on fumes I think). There is a 10 litre reserve I think, so it should show empty when you have about 10 litres left. I usually get arounf 400km per tank, but a few times I've gotten as high as 450km

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174696
Share on other sites

if u smell fuel check ur filler cap, or where your cap screws on to, the metal thingy you stick the nozzle in when fillin up, mine was vaporising thru there.Or most likely she's runnin rich and under boost, my car was getting 270km out of a tank and on 5-6psi boost. Put the car on the dyno and the A/F ratio was reading 9.XX on 5-6psi AFM was sending wrong signals somehow, solution brought the Apexi SAFC and I was able run more boost and now getting around 400km to a tank...have it dynoed...My bro in law brought a line too and mentioned what happened with mine he got his dynoed and it turns out his was runnin rich and underboost aswell....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174777
Share on other sites

61 litre tank in mine.

A little over 400k's per tank (city driving)

Extractors are the only current engine mod.

I hope to go on lots of long drives soon so I can tell what the economy is like on the open road. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174915
Share on other sites

Shit! That means my car engine mgt must be really bad (250-300km per full tank). I've since gotten rid of the old ECU and have put in a Microtech. So the car's tuned now and should run better. However, I dont think my R33's going to achieve as much as 400km per full tank!

Thanks for the informative feedback guys! With the event of war with Iraq looming, we've got to watch out for fuel usage. Have you seen the fuel prices lately?!! 104.5 for Synergy 8000 (Mobil). Ouch! I'm boosting less nowadays.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-174966
Share on other sites

My 97 r33 GTST Spec II i get around 400ks with a full tank.

Sometimes 350kish when I boost lots

I can only put in like max 53 litres at any time though.

This is with the needle on the redline but no idiot light.

Does anyone know tank capacity when the idiot light comes on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-175250
Share on other sites

I have put 64.8l in my series 1...

She stopped and started (stuttered) 50m from the petrol station, thought I was going to have to push her.....

BTW I run just shy of 400km a tank, week in week out, just as she hits reserve (the light) and always have 8-10l left in the tank. No mods 'cept air (exhaust on the way) and I know/can see that she is running way rich.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10763-mileage-full-tank/#findComment-175324
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...