Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, whilst driving along the motorway today i noticed my car riding in "d" gear, it got worst and worst and before i knew it, i could barely go up to 30km....the revs would just fly up, and fly straight down, as if in neutral.....what does this mean, it feels as though it jams up in 3rd and doesnt want to go into 4th???

BTW 1st and 2nd are running fine, 2nd gear was wat i used to get bak home, as i revved higher but it was moving unlike "d".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108141-auto-gearbox-kapoot/
Share on other sites

the auto's for a r33 are generally pretty cheap. They usually are sold for around the $300 mark i think. Manual conversion would be a lot more expensive (about $3000 so cheaper to sell auto skyline and buy a manual one).

If you want something in between those two figures maybe re-build the auto with stronger internals and a new valvebody etc.

just courious, how many RWKWs could the stock GTST AUTO box take before it breaks?

Chris

Around 250rwkw (or a turbo upgrade) and you'll be wanting to strengthen the box with a bigger transmission cooler.

i just done a auto conversion on my r33 and cost 4500, gone are the days of the 3000 conversion. i am selling my auto to luket01 at the moment for a spare. i can get hold of him and see if he still wants it?

the box is at xspeed and will require picking up from there if he does'nt want it .

sorry probly to far away, in w.a

Edited by Pal

cheers, well before any of this happened, i was going to fix up my car a little and sell it, so im really looking for the cheapest alternative, which would be to buy a 25t auto box (~300) and replace, correct?how much would labour cost for such a job?

also im going to have around 200rwkw, will the stock auto box handle this sort of power easy?

im about to replace the whole gearbox with a 2nd hand one, 500 all up inc labour, though i've been told that i'll need 7L of atf fluid???, i only filled 4L after draining mine, the guy said that its ~4L for the Transmission, and around 2-3L fluid needed for the torque converter???

everyone i heard says around 4L is right

im about to replace the whole gearbox with a 2nd hand one, 500 all up inc labour, though i've been told that i'll need 7L of atf fluid???, i only filled 4L after draining mine, the guy said that its ~4L for the Transmission, and around 2-3L fluid needed for the torque converter???

everyone i heard says around 4L is right

He is right, you'll need at least 7l if the trans an convertor have been drained. Just out of curiosity, did it just go all of a sudden etc, and is it making any nasty noises in any of the other gears?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...