Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, whilst driving along the motorway today i noticed my car riding in "d" gear, it got worst and worst and before i knew it, i could barely go up to 30km....the revs would just fly up, and fly straight down, as if in neutral.....what does this mean, it feels as though it jams up in 3rd and doesnt want to go into 4th???

BTW 1st and 2nd are running fine, 2nd gear was wat i used to get bak home, as i revved higher but it was moving unlike "d".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108141-auto-gearbox-kapoot/
Share on other sites

the auto's for a r33 are generally pretty cheap. They usually are sold for around the $300 mark i think. Manual conversion would be a lot more expensive (about $3000 so cheaper to sell auto skyline and buy a manual one).

If you want something in between those two figures maybe re-build the auto with stronger internals and a new valvebody etc.

just courious, how many RWKWs could the stock GTST AUTO box take before it breaks?

Chris

Around 250rwkw (or a turbo upgrade) and you'll be wanting to strengthen the box with a bigger transmission cooler.

i just done a auto conversion on my r33 and cost 4500, gone are the days of the 3000 conversion. i am selling my auto to luket01 at the moment for a spare. i can get hold of him and see if he still wants it?

the box is at xspeed and will require picking up from there if he does'nt want it .

sorry probly to far away, in w.a

Edited by Pal

cheers, well before any of this happened, i was going to fix up my car a little and sell it, so im really looking for the cheapest alternative, which would be to buy a 25t auto box (~300) and replace, correct?how much would labour cost for such a job?

also im going to have around 200rwkw, will the stock auto box handle this sort of power easy?

im about to replace the whole gearbox with a 2nd hand one, 500 all up inc labour, though i've been told that i'll need 7L of atf fluid???, i only filled 4L after draining mine, the guy said that its ~4L for the Transmission, and around 2-3L fluid needed for the torque converter???

everyone i heard says around 4L is right

im about to replace the whole gearbox with a 2nd hand one, 500 all up inc labour, though i've been told that i'll need 7L of atf fluid???, i only filled 4L after draining mine, the guy said that its ~4L for the Transmission, and around 2-3L fluid needed for the torque converter???

everyone i heard says around 4L is right

He is right, you'll need at least 7l if the trans an convertor have been drained. Just out of curiosity, did it just go all of a sudden etc, and is it making any nasty noises in any of the other gears?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...