Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Which is better:

Blitz Dual SBC Spec S

- 4 boost settings

- single solenoid (rated at 18psi)

- approx 360

Greddy Profec B Spec II

- 2 boost settings (rated at 30+ psi)

- twin solenoid

- approx 400 as well

I wont be boosting more than 12psi, but want something that will hold boost well (no spiking), thats why I am contemplating the greddy even though my boost level is not high.

Anyone used either and whats your experience?

Another one thats also good the greddy profec spec s, I like the turn knob feature that allows you to adjust your low and hi level boost easily. I dont think its as easy with the ones above, or is it?

Thanks all

Edited by nuffsaid

i reckon get the greddy because of the 2 solinoids(spelling) you'll end up wanting more boost than the blitz one offers my mate bought the blitz thinking he wouldnt go over 1.3bar and now wants to raise it 1.6bar

HYBRID ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER for under $400 - holds boost extremely well.

Here is some further info:

"Hybrid Electronic boost controllers not only spool the turbo up quicker, but also regulates the amount of boost pressure. Features included:- Microprocessor controlled. Closed/Open loop design. Accurate boost regulation. Fast boost attenuation. Two boost settings. Compact Design. Full in car adjustment. Competitve price. 9Bar/130 PSI solenoid. Easy to install with 2 built in pre-sets, easily adjusted by two knobs in the cabin"

I use one and its absolutely fine.... a good choice.

Tangles

The GReddy EBC only has one solenoid.

Are you sure? I thought he B Specs are dual solenoid. A couple of tuners have told me that they are, some links below also seem to think so.

See: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...boostcontrol05/ and http://www.modernperformance.com/all/greddy_profec.shtml

Are you sure? I thought he B Specs are dual solenoid. A couple of tuners have told me that they are, some links below also seem to think so.

See: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...boostcontrol05/ and http://www.modernperformance.com/all/greddy_profec.shtml

Arg I'm not sure now - the trader I bought mine off (chiba_osaka_boy) said it was single solenoid and if you look at the size of the Blitz Dual SBC (definitely twin solenoid) solenoid box its quite alot bigger than the GReddy solenoid unit.

BoostSpecRS.jpg

Go the eboost 2

get it installed and i will tell you how to use it

you realy need a boost gauge so eboost have 1 is not that much more

and dont do a dyno and i will tell you how to set it

they are so easy to use its not funny

james

It will depend on who fits it aswell

now i can use mine i would say any 1 who knows how to use wat ever 1 you got would be good

tuning is so important

1 tuner over in perth recons that the blitz 1 is the best cause they hold boost the best and are easy to fit

but that was the only 1 they could tune properly i was later told

james

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...