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I think he meant modified the cylinder head for increased oil return to the sump. We drill the oil return galleries and smooth the oil flow passages with the die grinder. Plus we fit an external oil return from the rear of cylinder head direct to the sump. Add this to the oil restriction (one feed restricted and one blocked off) in the top of the block and you have a good chance of the oil staying in the sump, not being trapped in the cylinder head. Or filling up your catch can.

TIP; If ordering the sump from Performance Metalcraft make sure you specify a fitting for an oil temperature sensor. Plus a fitting for the external oil return hose into the top of the LHS wing.

:P Cheers :D

Gary,

Your wealth of knowledge never ceases to amaze :P

Plus we fit an external oil return from the rear of cylinder head direct to the sump. Add this to the oil restriction (one feed restricted and one blocked off) in the top of the block and you have a good chance of the oil staying in the sump, not being trapped in the cylinder head. Or filling up your catch can.

TIP; If ordering the sump from Performance Metalcraft make sure you specify a fitting for an oil temperature sensor. Plus a fitting for the external oil return hose into the top of the LHS wing.

:yes: Cheers ;)

Hi Gary - can you post a pic (or sketch) of how you add the external oil return line?

Cheers

Gav

Good looking pan, but why not dry sump ?

I had a JUN baffle & a Trust sump extension, overkill prehaps but I did a serious launch with a 35k engine & ended up with a blown #6 big end, I spent a fortune rebuilding it , only for the same thing to happen again after the first few hard launches. I am now dry sumping, if you add up the cost of all the wet parts (ie jun pump 15 hundy, baffle 5 hundy, trust extension 5 hundy, welding 2 hundy, ) & compare this with dry sumping it's a joke (ie as new s/h 4 stage weaver pump from ebay 7 hundy new moroso drag tank from summit 7 hundy, plus the cost of all the lines, fittings, and a couple of filters about another 7 hundy, plus modifying the sump pan 7 hundy, & finally a weaver drive kit for 2 hundy) I really wonder why I did not dry sump in the first place ! I would appreciate your comments ?

I had a JUN baffle & a Trust sump extension, overkill prehaps but I did a serious launch with a 35k engine & ended up with a blown #6 big end, I spent a fortune rebuilding it , only for the same thing to happen again after the first few hard launches

firstly can i just ask how a dry sump works? also as the above states about the trust ext and jun baffle why did it blow the big end was it from lack of oil? also did it have an extended oil pick up, of been told this should help? im just new to this and need to know as the last thing i want is to blow this motor again......

thanks guys im glad this topic has taken off.

JagR33 runs a stock sump i believe with his tracked 33 GTR, 350awkw :P

There are numerous others too.

Its all about the prep work to head and other things, then you wont need a sump for your aims Lee :D

That's correct, standard sump, Ben (Racepace) assured me it would be OK, as long as oil is at the right level....

Done 3 trackdays, so far so good....

firstly can i just ask how a dry sump works? also as the above states about the trust ext and jun baffle why did it blow the big end was it from lack of oil? also did it have an extended oil pick up, of been told this should help? im just new to this and need to know as the last thing i want is to blow this motor again......

thanks guys im glad this topic has taken off.

best idea it to google: "what is a dry sump" or "dry sump system" or similar then you can learn how it works.

I have done a dry sump on my rb30/26 in my gtr. Car not running yet but let me tell you (not to scare anyone off) doing a dry sump setup on a foreign motor (ie all the parts are for chevs not nissan) is farkin tuff, not easy at all. If you have the mechanical know how it will make it easier but still alot of headaches, like pulley sizing to ensure enough oil and pressure on idle etc....

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