Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes a stock GTR is around 180 - 200kw on most dynos. a few kw more with exhaust etc.

i would go.

boost controller (run 1 bar boost)

apexi pods in a custom box

3 inch cat back exhaust

front pipes

dump pipes

Power FC

cam gears (both inlet and exhaust)

and you will get around 240-260rwkw if everything is working properly

i would also do your brakes (new pads, rotors, fluid) and add an oil cooler.

Just got a 90 model GTR?

The first mod you should be doing is a major service.

True, at least all fluids, tyres (if you imported it) and a check over and clean.

After that, drive it around for about 2 months to see if you can 'feel' anything wrong with it before modding.

Also, I got mine dynoed before I did anything to see what the power and boost curves looked like and see if they held steady or spiked/dropped off.

Just got a 90 model GTR?

The first mod you should be doing is a major service.

This goes without saying (but ill say it anyway), change all the fluids - you dont know when they were last changed......if at all.....

i just got a R32 GTR as well, leaving it stock for the moment just to see if there is anything wrong. Don't wanna spend all the cash modding then if something goes bang, your in trouble. Unless money is no issue :P

I've put in a set of XENONs though, but it doesn't go any quicker :D

Edited by gexenon

Just keep the boost at no more than 15psi with the other things mentioned above and you should be fine

And yes, that power (260) will happen with the mods mentioned above, unless theres a problem with your engine

yes a stock GTR is around 180 - 200kw on most dynos. a few kw more with exhaust etc.

i would go.

boost controller (run 1 bar boost)

apexi pods in a custom box3 inch cat back exhaust

front pipes

dump pipes

Power FC

cam gears (both inlet and exhaust)

and you will get around 240-260rwkw if everything is working properly

i would also do your brakes (new pads, rotors, fluid) and add an oil cooler.

Mine has all that less those couple of things and does over 250rwkw. Also need rising rate fuel reg. Plus for that boost level steel wheeled turbos is a handy insurance. I lost a good engine to a blown ceramic turbine as the crap often gets forced into the cylinder causing nasty damage.

Additional to all other suggestions I recommend the timing belt/pulley bearings be replaced ASAP as well as new grade 8 bolts for the bearings.

  • 5 weeks later...
sweet got more replies than i thought

im definatly doing the full fluids change and i was planning to wait a while before trying to get more hp

another question for yas

can my 32 get 240 -260 and still last a while or is it prone to go bang????

I can only tell you of where i went

100K service, doesnt matter if its got 98K or 50K on the clock, you will have a sound base to work from

Redline fluids

Brake fluid

3inch exhaust

front pipe

power fc

boost controller (1 bar)

Adjustable cam gears (both)

= 250rwkw

+ some drag racing

= "hey whats with all the smoke and where is all the power!" (Damn ceramic wheels!)

IMHO Whatever you do be realistic about your expectations and consider the risks.

I dont know your circumstances but if you want to start spending cash on it by all means go nuts.

I did; now i'm asking the forum questions about mods on a 300rwkw combo and contemplating the rebuild next year

....but if you dont, get the service, get a new stereo (is that what young ppl are calling them these days?), fix stuff that becomes an issue

and enjoy driving it for a while...After all it's a still a GTR

Edited by Mr. Keets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...