Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

Cubes

I ended up scoring a second hand head at a decent price so I am taxing the head for the lifters - cheapest option is to use standard second hand ones for now as im not changing the cams to go for solids.

My engine max's out on oil pressure when cold too. So yeah when i get it all running again I will post the oil pressure results.

The biggest thing for me will be the amount of oil being pushed out of the engine - get tooo much oil in the top end.

Going to be a big mission.

What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

Edited by Guilt-Toy

Howdy SK,

Mate, you really need to fire up Excel one day....you don't know what you're missing out on!! :D

As the formatting was all cocked up on your original post, I decided to pop it all in a nice, neat Excel table for you. Just have a quick double check to make sure all of the values I entered are correct.

Hope this is useful (god knows, what you do for us sure is!).

Cheers,

Mike

Nissan_RB_Cylinder_Head_Oil_Restrictor_Chart.zip

my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

What i noticed with Sydneykids posts is that when he says something he is allways right wether its a generalisation or not. (if that makes any sense)

Note the Topic. it says.

"Oil Controll In Rb's"

RB means rb20 as well to me!

Hahahaa looks like everyone is jumping at the opportunity to help Sydney kid - Seeing he helps us out all the time =)

If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

Supply on demand is why fuel costs so much. So if everyone did this.. Imagine how much a carton of beer would cost ? lol

Guest Mashrock

what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

Take a look at the sump, if it has wings then it will most likely be OK. If it doesn’t have wings, then I wouldn’t be going anywhere near a circuit until it does. Especially if it’s a 4wd. Just because it lived a life in Japan, doesn’t mean it will live one here. The guy driving it might have been a woos and blasted down the straights and trickled around the corners ie; no G forces to cause the oil surge.

At the very least watch the oil pressure and temperature guages like a hawk the first time out.

:) Cheers :D

while we're on this topic, what is the best way to block the other oil feed?

so we block it at the top? are there any issues with oil riding in the block however not circulating?

I was just going to block it of with some newspaper or some glue tak or something LOL j/k

Hmmmm.. Good question... Whats the best way ? can just tap the old restrictor down and screw something in its place to block it off?

Hmmm

you could use copper rod at the diameter of the feed, after you knock down the original restrictor ..

pretty sure this has been suggested as an alternate to the purchase of a tomei style restrictor when you can use copper rod with a hole drilled to custom specs ..

So once you have knocked the origanal restrictor down. Where does it go?? Does it stay in the block?? Not sure I like that idea, maybe you can use an ease-out to pull it clear of the block???

As for a new size restrictor, just make up a bronze or copper bush with the right size orifice! Sounds too easy.

I'll check this out this week and get back later.

Turbine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...