Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For a car that does regular track days and hard driving should be ok, but when driven on cold nights etc would pay to be blocked return

Block it off and do another 2500 then do another test to see if it effects the rseults.

  • 4 months later...

Hey guys just want to make sure im on the right path here... Car is 95% street driven but 4 or 5 track days a year.

RB28 is currently with engine builder and have the following being installed

- 9 litre sump

- Nitto oil pump

- Rear head drain to sump

- Mines rocker cover baffle kit

- Oil restrictor size? 1mm with nitto pump?

- Oil air separator and catch can set up

I will check on monday to see if this is going to be done

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

Anything else Im missing out?

I wouldn't bother with the so-called head drain to sump. No-=one has been able to show that it drains any oil. Better to run a breather from the sump to a catch can. My RB30 (different from yours) has two holes tapped in sump and one line goes to top of tank and the other is a return as at WOT a fair bit of oil is pushed out.

You obviously need to do all the drilling and relieving before the block is cleaned.

1.0mm restrictor sounds right

Mines rocker cover baffles seem to work

Oil air seperator and catch can sound good - going to eventually vent to intake or atmosphere?

Cheers thanks for the advice!

Im pretty sure were running a return to the sump as I did request that. I dont think they have started with the block yet so Ill give them a call on monday. They probably already are doing this as they have worked on a lot of gtr's before but better to ask the right questions and do the job properly once. With the catch can setup probably going to vent to atmosphere, but Im not sure what they have planned. Does it make a difference apart from legalities?

Cheers thanks for the advice!

Im pretty sure were running a return to the sump as I did request that. I dont think they have started with the block yet so Ill give them a call on monday. They probably already are doing this as they have worked on a lot of gtr's before but better to ask the right questions and do the job properly once. With the catch can setup probably going to vent to atmosphere, but Im not sure what they have planned. Does it make a difference apart from legalities?

I don't think so. I am currently running one catch can for the sump breather and the cam cover breathers. By now there is pretty much nothing coming out of the cam cover breathers but the breather/filter for the catch can at WOT exudes some oily mist (just nuisance value) so my plan is to run just the sump to one catch can and run the breather from that and the cam cover breathers to a second catch can set up as an air oil seperator and either vent that one to atmosphere or preferably vent the second one (assuming there's virtually no oil coming out of it) to the turbo intake pipe.
  • 1 month later...

Bumping this up,

I know the topic is for drift drag etc,

But do the rules still apply for street use?

I've bought a nitto pump coz I don't wanna break n1 pumps etc but seeing as the nitto pump flows a lot more oil at 7000rpm then standard this would pool the head therefore oil restritors would be used to limit the oil going to the head (plus other oil control)

But for a street driven r33 rb25det VCt daily driver that isn't going to see high rpm all day long only few street pulls and 1 1/4mile

If you were to restrit the oil going to the head wouldn't this result at lower rpm (cruising) for the hydraulic lifters to be noisey?

Seeing as litres/ per min nitto vs factory is

Engine rpm. Factory. Nitto

750. 4.6. 6.5

2200. 15.3. 20.2

7000. 46.5. 64.8

Pretty much I'm trying to fine out what oil restritors I need to not pool the head up high rpm and still be suitable for street daily cruising?

Leave the front, block middle, 1.5rear

Leave the front, block middle, 1.3 rear

Leave the front, 1.2 middle, 1.2 rear

I have been told to do this? But with the 1.5 rear I've heard of noisey lifters?

This may have been covered for other oil pumps but have seen anyone talk about it for a nitto pump and street use

Thanks for any help

You need to get pressure set to a suitable pressure for your engine first. I run a tomei pump, makes 35 psi at idle when hot and regulated to 70psi. I also have 2x 1.3 restrictors and lifters arent noisy but you can hear them. I do recon my restrictors crushed to about 1mm

Remember what the pumps free flow and what the pumps flow when both are set to exact pressure is different. 70 psi of oil pressure is 70 psi. Unlike air or compressables, its hydraulic. They both move the same at given pressures with a given restriction.

Basically if pressure is set, flow is irrelevant between pumps

Hmmm everyone I have rang (fair few shops) including nitto, can not tell me a straight answer which makes me wonder!!!

I've been told again to do

Leave front, 1.5mm middle, block rear

Also everyone I have rang has not said anything about adjusting the pressure? Even nitto

Hmmm everyone I have rang (fair few shops) including nitto, can not tell me a straight answer which makes me wonder!!!

I've been told again to do

Leave front, 1.5mm middle, block rear

Also everyone I have rang has not said anything about adjusting the pressure? Even nitto

Whats nitto's pressure set at? You dont want excessive pressure. I got lewis engines to set my pressure for 40 bucks... Highly reccomend especially if internal relief valve which means engine out

What size did you go?

Also nitto recommend not to adjust the pressure valve :/

As above i left vct std, and 1.3mm in the other two. They crushed down to more like 1mm. Using 65-70 psi... Ask what the pressure is set at.. I wouldn't go any less than those restrictions as at idle lifters in mine are more audible...

Remember 1x 1.5mm flows over 2/3 the volume of 2x 1mm restrictors

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...