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Standard R33 Bov

Ganador

By Ganador,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Ganador Enthusiast

Ganador

Posted
Posted (edited)

how do you run the standard BOV with out the plumb back and have the engine not stall???

Ive tryed dissconnecting the plumb back then blocking it off, bu the engine keeps stalling. its able to rev high and make some loud noises but just wont idle..any help?? and how is that plumb back eliminated all together cause it looks gay.

Edited by Ganador
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111072-standard-r33-bov/
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PlasticStan Enthusiast

PlasticStan

Posted
Posted
how do you run the standard BOV with out the plumb back and have the engine not stall???

Ive tryed dissconnecting the plumb back then blocking it off, bu the engine keeps stalling. its able to rev high and make some loud noises but just wont idle..any help?? and how is that plumb back eliminated all together cause it looks gay.

AFAIK you can't, the stock BOV leaks all the time, even at idle. So you will never be able to get the car to run with the re-circ pipe disconnected. If you really want a VTA BOV then you will have to replace the stock BOV with an aftermarket BOV.

GT-PASSAGE Enthusiast

GT-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted
WRONG

if you want to get the stock bov working without hte plumback, the solution is not an aftermarket bov, but an aftermarket ecu...

I have a top of the range turbo Smart BOV with a Power FC and its still not perfect, the problem being that after it vents there is still a small flutter (with large snail) causing air to go both directions in the AFM causing Power FC to freak! the computer thinks ok more fuel and if large injectors ie. 720cc thats heaps of fuel and bam a stall.

Sorry no answers only more problems, my advice stick to factory BOV system (or smaller injctors haha)

G.

Ganador Enthusiast

Ganador

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im looking at putting a front cooler, turbosmart type2 BOV, gizzmo electronic boost controller and this turbosmart thingy that can be adjusted so when you up the boost the computer wont get confused. i think this should pretty much solve problems all round.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I have a top of the range turbo Smart BOV with a Power FC and its still not perfect, the problem being that after it vents there is still a small flutter (with large snail) causing air to go both directions in the AFM causing Power FC to freak! the computer thinks ok more fuel and if large injectors ie. 720cc thats heaps of fuel and bam a stall.

Sorry no answers only more problems, my advice stick to factory BOV system (or smaller injctors haha)

G.

First time ive heard of injectors causing a car to stall....

GT-PASSAGE Enthusiast

GT-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted
First time ive heard of injectors causing a car to stall....

I know its weird, its not so much the injectors but the AFM reading air coming back in on the flutter and then of course the over dose of fuel.

Best of luck with all the mods, I'm sure they will all be sweet together.

PlasticStan Enthusiast

PlasticStan

Posted
Posted
WRONG

if you want to get the stock bov working without hte plumback, the solution is not an aftermarket bov, but an aftermarket ecu...

You sound very sure. :thumbsup:

Have you tried it, the stock BOV cannot be used as a VTA BOV because it leaks at idle, it has nothing to do with the ECU.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

well i was being a bit definate there wasn't i.. he he

what i meant to say is that changing to an afermarket bov is NOT going to fix the problem

the problem is that air that has been accountered for is being lost

Putting another device that loses air will simply return the same problem

the only way to fix it is to either:

- put a re-circulating bov on the car (stock or aftermarket)

- use a decive that accounts for the lost air, thus keeping the AFR in equilibrium

Waz

lordsnipe Community Regular

lordsnipe

Posted
Posted

the stock BOV cannot be used in a VTA situation because the spring is too soft and cannot be adjusted.

You can run an aftermarket VTA BOV with the stock ECU, you just have to adjust it properly. If it's stalling then the spring is probably too soft and staying open too long.

The only problem with VTA BOVs is running rich during gearchanges when the BOV vents

I was running a Greddy Type S and now a GFB StealthFX, both with no problems with stalling whatsoever.

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