Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how do you run the standard BOV with out the plumb back and have the engine not stall???

Ive tryed dissconnecting the plumb back then blocking it off, bu the engine keeps stalling. its able to rev high and make some loud noises but just wont idle..any help?? and how is that plumb back eliminated all together cause it looks gay.

Edited by Ganador
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111072-standard-r33-bov/
Share on other sites

how do you run the standard BOV with out the plumb back and have the engine not stall???

Ive tryed dissconnecting the plumb back then blocking it off, bu the engine keeps stalling. its able to rev high and make some loud noises but just wont idle..any help?? and how is that plumb back eliminated all together cause it looks gay.

AFAIK you can't, the stock BOV leaks all the time, even at idle. So you will never be able to get the car to run with the re-circ pipe disconnected. If you really want a VTA BOV then you will have to replace the stock BOV with an aftermarket BOV.

WRONG

if you want to get the stock bov working without hte plumback, the solution is not an aftermarket bov, but an aftermarket ecu...

I have a top of the range turbo Smart BOV with a Power FC and its still not perfect, the problem being that after it vents there is still a small flutter (with large snail) causing air to go both directions in the AFM causing Power FC to freak! the computer thinks ok more fuel and if large injectors ie. 720cc thats heaps of fuel and bam a stall.

Sorry no answers only more problems, my advice stick to factory BOV system (or smaller injctors haha)

G.

im looking at putting a front cooler, turbosmart type2 BOV, gizzmo electronic boost controller and this turbosmart thingy that can be adjusted so when you up the boost the computer wont get confused. i think this should pretty much solve problems all round.

I have a top of the range turbo Smart BOV with a Power FC and its still not perfect, the problem being that after it vents there is still a small flutter (with large snail) causing air to go both directions in the AFM causing Power FC to freak! the computer thinks ok more fuel and if large injectors ie. 720cc thats heaps of fuel and bam a stall.

Sorry no answers only more problems, my advice stick to factory BOV system (or smaller injctors haha)

G.

First time ive heard of injectors causing a car to stall....

First time ive heard of injectors causing a car to stall....

I know its weird, its not so much the injectors but the AFM reading air coming back in on the flutter and then of course the over dose of fuel.

Best of luck with all the mods, I'm sure they will all be sweet together.

WRONG

if you want to get the stock bov working without hte plumback, the solution is not an aftermarket bov, but an aftermarket ecu...

You sound very sure. :thumbsup:

Have you tried it, the stock BOV cannot be used as a VTA BOV because it leaks at idle, it has nothing to do with the ECU.

well i was being a bit definate there wasn't i.. he he

what i meant to say is that changing to an afermarket bov is NOT going to fix the problem

the problem is that air that has been accountered for is being lost

Putting another device that loses air will simply return the same problem

the only way to fix it is to either:

- put a re-circulating bov on the car (stock or aftermarket)

- use a decive that accounts for the lost air, thus keeping the AFR in equilibrium

Waz

the stock BOV cannot be used in a VTA situation because the spring is too soft and cannot be adjusted.

You can run an aftermarket VTA BOV with the stock ECU, you just have to adjust it properly. If it's stalling then the spring is probably too soft and staying open too long.

The only problem with VTA BOVs is running rich during gearchanges when the BOV vents

I was running a Greddy Type S and now a GFB StealthFX, both with no problems with stalling whatsoever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...