Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo 'whistling' Under High Boost On 1999 R34

Haxorz

By Haxorz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
Posted

I just got a report back on an R34 I'm looking to purchase. The report said that the turbo makes a whistling sound under boost.

The guy who performed the inspections knows skylines well and owns one himself. He said this is not normal but has heard it once before on another skyline.

Is this bad? Or does it not matter? The car also doesn't perform as I think it should but then again it's only running the stock exhaust and I'm used to my R33 with a full 3" system.

Apart from this the car is in excellent condition and has done few km's.

The mechanic said he 'doesn't really know' if it's a bad thing or not.

Any turbo gurus? Does the turbo have a clipped fin and is stuffed or what?

ish Proficient

ish

Posted
Posted

you need to look at this logicly ....

the noise will be either air or bearing ... if its air then that can be assesed as maybe a small leak which would could easily found with a bit of testing ... mine was a flange leak

If its a bearing then thats a bit different ... some bearings will whistle for ever never being affected and some will groove along untill they have no slippy stuff left and seize ...

compared to the rest of the car the turbo is condidered a bolt on so i say if its the right price go for it and strap on a better huffer when you can .....

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Our R34GTT did the turbo whistle as soon as we upped the boost even a little bit. The Stagea is the same. The R33GTST doesn't and its turbo is a lot older than the R34GTT or the Stagea. Maybe something to do with the Hitachi turbos, plastic compressors etc.

:P cheers :rofl:

illusiVe Proficient

illusiVe

Posted
Posted (edited)

ive driven about 10-15 r34 gtts, and i have not heard one whistle.. just giving my input :)

nfi if thats a good or bad thing.. maybe its so u can woof whistle at girls without having to be louder than your exhaust or sound system :O

edit: bad grandma.... grammar :P

Edited by illusiVe
illusiVe Proficient

illusiVe

Posted
Posted

just picked mine up on tuesday... on stock boost, mine didnt whistle.. just the compression sound of air rushing.. but i put in a manual boost controller, bumped high up to 9psi... and it sounds fine getting there.. but it starts to whistle when it manitains 9psi from say 4k-7k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...