Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A lot of people mention the extra weight of the R34 and R33 over the R32.

How much real world difference does extra kilos make to the performance of a car? Obviously less weight means more speed and better handling.

So considering the R33 GTS-T is 3.7% heavier than the R32 GTS-T, would this mean that the R32 is exactly 3.7% faster than an R33? (obviously comparing cars with exactly the same tyres, suspension etc etc).

If this is the case, then 3.7% isn't much difference IMO - I think driver skill would 'outweigh' this small percentage when it comes to any type of competition, be it track or drag events!

Here are the KERBweights I've found for each model:

R32 GTS-T - 1320kg

R33 GTS-T - 1370kg

R34 GT-T - 1410kg

R32 GTR - 1480kg

R33 GTR - 1530kg

R34 GTR - 1540kg

What do you think?

Edited by Primordial
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111689-skyline-weight-debate/
Share on other sites

slightly different wheelbase.. way the power is delivered to the ground due to the chasis design, weight balance, different gearbox ratios, engine toruqe, even aerodynamics, etc.

It's silly to say "R33 weighs <this>" as well, as s1 and s2 are usually different, etc, etc.. I know series1 R32 (89/90) is about 40kg lighter than series 2 (91-92)

Ok.. ill rephrase my initial question.. I just didnt want this to end up another series vs series thread!

How much difference does X amount of weight make in the REAL WORLD. People talk about the R33 as a 'boat' etc. But how much actual performance difference/benefit is there as a result - NOT including other factors of course.

Im not talking specific numbers, just your opinion of whether a small amount of weight makes a difference in the performance of a car

Edited by Primordial
A lot of people mention the extra weight of the R34 and R33 over the R32.

How much real world difference does extra kilos make to the performance of a car? Obviously less weight means more speed and better handling.

So considering the R33 GTS-T is 3.7% heavier than the R32 GTS-T, would this mean that the R32 is exactly 3.7% faster than an R33? (obviously comparing cars with exactly the same tyres, suspension etc etc).

If this is the case, then 3.7% isn't much difference IMO - I think driver skill would 'outweigh' this small percentage when it comes to any type of competition, be it track or drag events!

Here are the KERBweights I've found for each model:

R32 GTS-T - 1320kg

R33 GTS-T - 1370kg

R34 GT-T - 1410kg

R32 GTR - 1480kg

R33 GTR - 1530kg

R34 GTR - 1540kg

What do you think?

1989/90 R32GTST's weigh 1265 kgs, no sunroof, no ABS

For the same reasons 1989/90 R32GTR's weigh less than 1991/93 R32GTR's

Using engine power to weight is simplistic, you need to take into account the relative transmission losses.

Weight affects more than acceleration, there is also braking and cornering to be considered if you are looking at circuit work. There is also the effect of where the extra weight is. The extra ~200 kgs carried by a GTR is mostly on the front wheels, that has a big effect on how they handle.

Take a look at the success ballast applied to certain forms of racing, 40 kgs will take you from the front to the back of the grid.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

My 1989 r32 gtst 4door auto,with sunroof and a full tank of gas in full street trim weighed 1390kg, so im guessing it would weigh about 1320-1330kg dry, anyone else weighed there car??

yeah im with primordial, y do they say that 33 is too heavy wen in fact a stronger engine helps out balance the weight. why call 33 a boat? wen the 34 is heavier?

I think people say that because of the way they look, rather than how they go.

You've also gotta remember it's not all about the total weight it's about where it is. For example if anyone here has driven an old porsche 911 you will know what it's like with that huge amount of weight sitting behind the rear axle. It's like a pendulum and when the rear steps out it's very hard to catch. It also makes the front end very flighty and not seem as grounded. Compare that to a porsche boxer with agrubly the best place for an engine (midship) and you'll understand.

So if a car weighs more also think about where it carry's it's weight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...