Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm ordering stock for my new e-business that I am in the process of setting up. To help lower costs of importing the first lot of stock I am putting the word out for anyone that wants to be involved in a group purchase.

The supplier is in Taiwan. The pricing listed below is in Australia. I've calculated the costs of Import duty and GST into the pricing, so items will cost what is listed plus freight to your door(see below).

So, here's what is available and its price landed here in australia.

INTAKE PLENUMS

RB20 Intake Manifold or RB25 Intake Manifold $502.49

RB20.jpg

RB26 Single TB conversion Intake Manifold $502.49

RB26_SingleIntake.JPG

RB26 Greddy Style Intake Manifold "Polished" $689.69

RB26-Greddy.jpg

SR20DET Intake Manifold "Polished" $541.90

SR20_20plenum.jpg

Available with throttle body flanges for standard, 73, 80,90 and 100mm.

Throttle bodies (Veilside Replica's)

73mm Throttle Body $345.46

80mm Throttle Body $376.87

90mm Throttle Body $408.27

100mm Throttle Body $492.02

TB1.jpg

TB2.JPG

Available in either blue anodised or clear anodised finishes.

FREIGHT

Freight to anywhere in australia will have to be calulated but I can say that small items <3kg = $11.60 overnight freight. <5kg will be $16.10 for overnight freight also. Larger items such as plenums will be sent by mail and should be less than $30.

To participate in this group buy, email me and tell me what you are interested in purchasing. I'll be maintaining a register of who's buying what. Then once I receive the volume pricing i'll email everyone back what the final delivery price will be for what they want.

So the details I'll need are:

Name:

Shipping Address: (Preferably a place of business so packages can be signed for)

Phone or Mobile:

Email Address:

Item(s) you are interested in:

Once I've got your details I'll keep you up to date and give you a freight quote. This group buy will close on the 17th of April (2 weeks). At which time I'll make contact with those that have expressed interest. Product will arrive in Australia by the 8th of May at the latest.

Thanks,

Ian Swinkels.

Mobile: 0434 147 478 or 0740527220 (business hours)

[email protected] (this address is SPAM filtered, so if your mail bounces try [email protected])

Edited by GTST4Newbie
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I wouldn't be game to compare the two. There is no doubt that a Sub Zero plenum is awesome quality, hand made and australian quality parts, but it all comes down to what you want to spend.

The GTR style single throttle body plenums RRP for about $918 AUD in new zealand, and the GREDDY style ones RRP for about $915. So its about $300 cheaper for one of these taiwan assembled units.

In the end performance comes down to flow. So provided its match ported to your head/throttle bodies it will do well. Weather it be a sub zero plenum or any other one, it will still require this kind of work to be performed if your chasing serious ponies!

Out of conisidence i'm ordering a Sub zero plenum tomorrow myself!

Edited by GTST4Newbie

Yes Kyle, the plenums use the standard intake runners but are cut off and have plenums attached. Each plenum runner has a trumpet at the top and are match ported to the runners after welding.

Because it uses a factory manifold its a guaranteed direct bolt on affair, with the exception fo having to re-run your vacuum hoses and relocate the throttle, and intercooler plumbing.

33SOM... Adapters for the standard throttle body? You mean a plenum for the standard throttle body? If thats the case then yes the plenums are available with throttle body flanges for throttles from stock to 100mm in all type of engines. 80mm is definatly the best way to go for all round tunability and room for 500hp easy.

Stock R32/R33 ones become a restriction around the 280-300 mark although you can still push a lot more thru them there is power to be had by increasing the size of the TB.

Sub Zero have moved and renamed their operation to Ferral performance... They still make plenums for around the $1000-1200 mark too depending on what your chasing.

Proven... not by me. But i'm sure someone out there is using them.

They are the same as the ones sold at ...

http://www.japaneseperformanceparts.com

I'll be buying from their wholesaler...

PROBLEM.... RB25 intake runners are in tight demand... and as a result they can't supply RB25 plenums unless I ship them intake runners first.

I'll be seeing if I can cut a deal with a some of the importers to get a heap of them for the right price. I'll update you all with my progress, but for the moment i'll have to say RB25 plenums aren't available at present.

CHeers,

Ian

The RB26 Single throttlebody manifold does not fit needing welding and machining to get them close.

I tryed and gave up as the end result was going to be very sub standard.Used the throttlebody on a Greddy manifold also with poor results with 1300rpm being the lowest idle speed i could get.

The RB26 Single throttlebody manifold does not fit needing welding and machining to get them close.

I tryed and gave up as the end result was going to be very sub standard.Used the throttlebody on a Greddy manifold also with poor results with 1300rpm being the lowest idle speed i could get.

Dam thats not good at all! With the throttle body did you try starting the car and jaming a rag in the intake (or covering it with your hand) to eliminate the possaibility of a vacuum leak elsewhere? I've been told by the suppliers that they have a ball bearing supported shaft that is sealed?

Did you get yours from japaneseperformanceparts in NZ?

Hi Everyone,

Here is another picture of the RB20 plenum from a diferent angle. The supplier sent me a bunch more pictures but this was the only one worth looking at. When I ask for pictures of inside the plenum I think things are getting lost on translation...

They have 3 vacuum connections and also a connection for the brake booster. I can't tell if there is a place for the idle control valve at this stage yet. And again due to language lost in translation I can't get a clear response from the supplier... :S Worst case is that a small flange would need to be welded onto each plenum. On the bright side of this, you can put it anywhere you want, so you can mount it under the plenum so its not visable.

RB20_1.jpg

Also, the group buy is being extended until the 19th (2 days extra) due to a 1 week holiday that everyone seems to be taking in taiwan.

There has been a fair amount of interest in the group buy, enough that it will definatly be going ahead.

The lack of RB25 plenums is an issue, but i'm still investigating a work around and possibly importing the plenums allowing you to get them welded and match ported locally.

I'll be in touch with all people that made an enquiry in 5-7 days prior to placing the order on the 19th.

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels.

Edited by GTST4Newbie

very interested in one for a 20, provided we can get pics of the inside, also something that concerns me is that the rb20 one seems to be very similer to a gtr manifold, in terms of short intake runners, which has been tried and tested and you loose low down torque and power pretty much everyware, one of the nice things about the plazaman plenium is they bolt onto the original lower half of the manifold :bomb_ie:, as there any way we can get some kinda dyno charts?

very interested in one for a 20, provided we can get pics of the inside, also something that concerns me is that the rb20 one seems to be very similer to a gtr manifold, in terms of short intake runners, which has been tried and tested and you loose low down torque and power pretty much everyware, one of the nice things about the plazaman plenium is they bolt onto the original lower half of the manifold :), as there any way we can get some kinda dyno charts?

No I can't get pics of the inside. I will take some personally when the first shipment arrives.

Yes the total intake runner lenght is less with these plenums so in theory you loose some off boost torque, but it makes no diference when they are on boost. The intate runners do have trumpets on top of them.

No dyno info at this stage, but i'm planning on doing a before and after 16lb run on my car when I get one for it, so i'll post info then. Frankly i'm not putting it on to improve performance. I just hate the stock plenum and the cross over pipe you have to run if you have a frount mount IC.

I'm on holidays in darwin at the moment but i'm still in email contact. I'll be trying to keep people informed. When i'm back home monday week i'll be placing the order shortly there after making contact with everyone, confirming details again etc. Its still some public holiday in Taiwan as well so they aren't replying to email till the 23rd.

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels.

  • 2 weeks later...

Group Buy is closed. Thanks to everyone thats involved. I've emailed you all now, but if for some reason you didn't get my email let me know. The order is being placed this Wednesday. Parts arrive in 6-14 days.

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...