Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering moving by itself when the car was stationary!!

RBN1

By RBN1,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

ok was driving the other day at 2am in the morning and made a stop to check the street directory. I noticed the HICAS light came on and the the steering wheel started to flick a little to one side by itself! It stopped so I continued driving. Made another stop in a car park and once again the HICAS light comes on and the steering flicks slightly.

This time I didn't take any chances. Turned the car off then tried to start it up again - nothing! It just makes a clicking noise from the starter? and thats it. Next day went back to it and it starts fine all off a sudden after a whole heap of goes. No problems ever since.

Anyone got any suggest wtf this weird problem might be?

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

Have you checked the level of the power steering pump? (and the one in the boot for hicas EDIT: sorry ATTESSA )

Also have you run diagnostics?

http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/tree.html

That can be found at the above link!

Strange how the steering wheel moves by it self?

You might need the doctor to do an exorcism! :bahaha:

MEGA

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Firstly (once again), the fluid reservoir in the boot is for ATTESSA (4WD).

Now, deorbit, has anyone played with the alternator recently? Make sure all the connections are firm. And check the P/S fluid.

Cecam Enthusiast

Cecam

Posted
Posted

The hicas light is usually the first to come on when theres low voltage, which may make it also sulk and go into diags, which makes the rears move. This is can be felt through the steering wheel and will twitch left and right every couple of seconds.

When you sort out your electrics, I think you'll find your hicas will be fine... As above, check your alternator and earths first...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • joshuaho96
      Coolant leak?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...