Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CruiseLiner: Go the the Hi-Octance sump I was a bit worried about it until I dropped in and had a good look at it, you get:

Enlarged Sump

Tomei Baffle Kit

Windage tray

Pefect Welding

No clearance issues

If you add it up the Tomei sump will cost you similar money once it is all said and done.

Steve Maitland from Maitland performance fabricators is the man for your job as his done many and his local and his work is proven in Wa rally and race cars.

hey steve thats who made the current one i got and its great welding, and qaulity, just a bad design with only one side enlarged and trap doored plus the pickup has the cup thing around it too.

ill post a pic up tommorow when i get 5 min

I'm using a Performance Metalcraft sump 9L. It was recommended by SK and is enlarged on both left, right and front with no clearance issues. I also have the tomei restrictor in the head, a -10 return line from the back of the head to the sump. I am also using the Nismo Oil Pump but previously I was using the JUN oil pump. Both pumps are good.

The sump setup is shown on there website at:

http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

Dry sumps sounds like a great thing to do but most GTR's that race here only really use a tomei baffle kit, Jap brand oil pump, restrictor in the head and an extra 1 litre of oil all on a standard sump and no oil issues at all.

How about fitting an oil accumulator such as an acusump ?

That would offer some additional protection, without any disadvantages at a fraction of the cost of a full dry sump system. It will also keep oil pressure up to the turbos for a short time after the ignition is turned off.

I have never used one, but it may be worth thinking about.

anyone know some good designs? ive seen the hi octane ones, any other brands worth looking at? i dont want the trust one as its wayyyy too low for my liking.

thanks again everyone, awesome info :)

Brad

who said the trust one is 2 low heres a pic see the diff and the bottom of the sump arnt that far apart.

post-1964-1145232807.jpg

I tested my dry sump set up on a rb20 recently. Luckily the engine was free cuase its no longer with us, the drive setup was incorrect and it ran out of oil pressure, haha these things happen thats why they needed to be tested.

Dry sump on RB= experience!!!

To do the job you not only need the backing of good machinist for parts but dry sump experts, plus an rb expert. Its all anout knowledge to get the best results. If I were you I would talk to as many people as possible that have experience with dry sumps on chevs etc, then talk to people that know about the rb series oil system, then talk to people who have actually done it and ask there opinions!!! I would only recommend it for hardcore racing cars that dont see the street, but thats personal opinion!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...