Jump to content
SAU Community

Dry Sump Setups Thread :)


Recommended Posts

CruiseLiner: Go the the Hi-Octance sump I was a bit worried about it until I dropped in and had a good look at it, you get:

Enlarged Sump

Tomei Baffle Kit

Windage tray

Pefect Welding

No clearance issues

If you add it up the Tomei sump will cost you similar money once it is all said and done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve Maitland from Maitland performance fabricators is the man for your job as his done many and his local and his work is proven in Wa rally and race cars.

hey steve thats who made the current one i got and its great welding, and qaulity, just a bad design with only one side enlarged and trap doored plus the pickup has the cup thing around it too.

ill post a pic up tommorow when i get 5 min

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using a Performance Metalcraft sump 9L. It was recommended by SK and is enlarged on both left, right and front with no clearance issues. I also have the tomei restrictor in the head, a -10 return line from the back of the head to the sump. I am also using the Nismo Oil Pump but previously I was using the JUN oil pump. Both pumps are good.

The sump setup is shown on there website at:

http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

Dry sumps sounds like a great thing to do but most GTR's that race here only really use a tomei baffle kit, Jap brand oil pump, restrictor in the head and an extra 1 litre of oil all on a standard sump and no oil issues at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about fitting an oil accumulator such as an acusump ?

That would offer some additional protection, without any disadvantages at a fraction of the cost of a full dry sump system. It will also keep oil pressure up to the turbos for a short time after the ignition is turned off.

I have never used one, but it may be worth thinking about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anyone know some good designs? ive seen the hi octane ones, any other brands worth looking at? i dont want the trust one as its wayyyy too low for my liking.

thanks again everyone, awesome info :)

Brad

who said the trust one is 2 low heres a pic see the diff and the bottom of the sump arnt that far apart.

post-1964-1145232807.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tested my dry sump set up on a rb20 recently. Luckily the engine was free cuase its no longer with us, the drive setup was incorrect and it ran out of oil pressure, haha these things happen thats why they needed to be tested.

Dry sump on RB= experience!!!

To do the job you not only need the backing of good machinist for parts but dry sump experts, plus an rb expert. Its all anout knowledge to get the best results. If I were you I would talk to as many people as possible that have experience with dry sumps on chevs etc, then talk to people that know about the rb series oil system, then talk to people who have actually done it and ask there opinions!!! I would only recommend it for hardcore racing cars that dont see the street, but thats personal opinion!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two tyres U have mentioned are the same height as the profile height is a  calculated percentage of the width 
    • appears to be, I loosened the bleeder on top IACV and coolant came out.
    • The markings on a balancer are on the outer. The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber. The outer and the inner can, and will, slip against each other as the balancer starts to fail. Put a new balancer on it.
    • Are you going to be at WTAC this year @bcozican? Just realised it's coming up end of August so not long to go at all. https://www.worldtimeattack.com/
    • I just replaced the timing belt, along with tensioner, idler, water pump, etc. all the front end engine stuff with all new stock Nissan parts on my 98 R34 GTT that I just recently got, so glad I did as the belt ,tensor, idler and water pump were all original to the car with over 161 Km and looked absolutely terrible, honestly I cant believe the belt has not broken, luckily I have not driving the vehicle since I got it, and only have ran a few times because I've been restoring it over this winter. I turned engine over by hand and lined up all the timing marks from cams, to the head (plate behind pulleys), and crank to  oil pump block mark, as ran fine, but had a lot of front end noise. the idler sounded like gravel and the tensioner had to no tensor left on it at all as it appeared the spring had rusted in place due to a waterpump leak over the years. so the timing belt was very loose on the left or tensioner side. Never the less I turn engine by hand until everything lined up even with the marks on the original belt. I remove everything making sure not to rotate anything, then put in new tensioner,  idler, made sure all marks from belt matched marks on the pulleys, cams and crank alike and all marks from crank and cams to head and block were perfect. I slowly turned by hand and everything lined up on the cams and crank to the head and block every other time, as proper. all looked fine until I put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the  harmonic balancer, at this point before torqueing the crank bolt down I noticed the timing mark on the lower cover to the harmonic balancer is off. I think the marks on the harmonic balancer and in 5 degrees, from 0-20  and it should be at 0, but some how its around -2.5, not enough for a belt notch, and there is little play in this cover to the block. The key way and key are perfect on the crank and slot in balancer is perfect, no play here, and the cams and other timing marks seem to be on. Is this something to be concerned with or will it be fine. maybe just this way due to a new stock Nissan belt?? slightly tight and will stretch a hair??? I marked the CAS before disassembly and know it should be set to 15 degrees BTDC or so at 650 rpms per engine decal. so do I need to worry about what appears to be a slight retard of the mechanical timing? or will this slight difference be compensated when I adjust my CAS?   appreciate any insight.    
×
×
  • Create New...