Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i sold my r31 last week

so i was down a fun car

so after a few vb's a cunning plan was unleashed to the world

im a 31 man and i must say s13 are really camp... so i had to do something about it buy injecting some r31 love into the s13

ill update this as it goes with helpfully tips for the little dooers out there

anyway the plan

stage one

1992 s13 sr20de auto silvia (check the miss's was away for a week so she didnt mind me floogging her car)

stage two

drop a running rb30e into the silvia and rip some burnouts

stage 3

drop a gtr head onto the old girl and some f**k off 350 hp high mount tiwns

time frame is about one month so heres hoping it all goes well

runing progresss 10/4/06

stage two

picked up a manual conversion for a s13

this one dropped in no dramas

quick rundown of the parts

r32 gts crossmember

r31 rb30e engine

rb20 sump

rb30 power steering pump

r32 gtr radiator

gtr clutch

two thermo fans

modified bonnet

basically the engine is in and running

this week we will plumb it up and add a surge tank for stage three

the engine does stick out of the bonnet a fair bit but this shouldnt be an issue when the gtr head is on

sorry only got a few picks

im hoping it rips a mean skid

fnaoit.JPG

fnaoit99.JPG

stage one is complete

well stage one is complete i must say the thing is an animal!!!!!!!!!

bp ultimate and heaps of timming = great burnouts

picks of the bonnet

looks photochoped hey but she is in there

2w09m5.JPG

2w09m587.JPG

almost a factory install if you ask me

thankyou super kyle (r31 mechanic in newcastle)

11fxr.JPG

this one shows how high it gets

11fxr31.JPG

this is why we need a bonnet scoupe

2w0a5i.JPG

thermos on the front cause there is only an inch to the radiator

2w09uq.JPG

sexual chocolate

2w09uq96.JPG

2w0a31.JPG

some wank in the interior (working out how the tach worked was going to be a killer

2w0a3185.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113833-crackpot-idea-number-52-by-fatz/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I like it... Find the biggest capacity nissan 6, then turbocharge it, then put it into the lighest chassis possible. :thumbsup: should be a lot of fun and tail happy.

Hope the weight balance is OK.

you are a champion for inventing such a car...

Wasnt some dude in NZ doing that same thing?

Either way, you are my hero, I love you. Please keep things updated. Might be handy when I sometime get the money and time to get one in the cef.

weight is fine

ill be taking it to the sau circuit day and thrashing it hard to get a feel for the handelling

just need to tee up some shocks

currently has kyb ones with stock springs (lol the suspension level raised with the new engine... work that shit out)

if you could ever get that car to hook up and go you would have a supra/bike killer on your hands...

awesome work, rb swaps into s chassis cars are loads of fun.

also check out www.lsauto.com for a drop in tach that reads the 6cyl signal or grab a r32 gauge cluster and with a touch of trimming the r32 tacho fits into the s13 cluster.

as for the front end being a touch higher after the swap you are spot on, you now have more weight behind the xmember than before so its gonna lift a bit, i noticed that too when i did my rb20 swap into my s14, works a treat and improves handling a bit.

Edited by carl h

what a piece of shit. doesnt look like a 31 at all. still a girls car you shirt lifter.

RB30e is a sweet motor though, definatley the best thing about the car (well the bonnet scoop is pretty good too). So refined and powerfull and it just looks so sexy sitting there. hopefully it will chirp the odd second too.

go bananaman.

:)

banaman has been nothing but trouble for you pete. he is a bad influence no doubt about it. ever since he rode into town in his 31 wagon things have gone downhill.

Fatz, you are my hero... keep up the good work, im hanging out to see some updates on power delivery/traction/handling when its all sorted, just be sure to go to a sperm bank and save some 'genetic material, cos I think your lovely girl will probably relieve you of your balls, and I want to clone you :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...