Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

i have an 89 model r32 gts-t. im after a turbo upgrade, but i dont know what to buy. i can afford a total of roughly $2000 (tax return, yay!) for parts (manifold, turbo, gaskets etc.).

ive resaerched this topic on the forums but couldnt find a conclusive desision. although i think that Garret turbos seem to be popular and of quality. but correct me if im worng.

im after a SOLID 200 or more rwkw (the more the merrier) with minimal lag.

ive been told that if your gunna get a turbo upgrade you need to upgrade you BOV? is this true?

what has everyone else done?.. other mods that will be done at the same time are

300*600*76 fmic

2.5 inch exhaust

e-manage piggy back computer

greddy rs bov (if nesasary)

steel head gasket

yeah.

cheers all.

and pretty please dont lecture me about "doing a search"cos i did a detailed search with no luck. sorry if i missed somthing. :)

thanks heaps in advance.

James.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113939-r32-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

the advantage is cost, you can sell the emagange and its not needed and get a remap instead. the remap will be better and youll have less junk in the wiring loom, less stuff to go wrong or fail or cause other issues

im after a SOLID 200 or more rwkw (the more the merrier) with minimal lag.

ON an RB20... you cant have that.

Go with the HKS 2530 IMO.

Throw the Emanage in the bin and use a re-map as stated

get a full 3" exhaust

all this is going to cost more than $2000 though dude, nothing is ever cheap like that

lol... The GT3540R won't make boost until 6500rpm. :P

That turbo is way way too big.

If you want new I'd probably look at the GT2871 48trim Comp & paired to the .64 turbine housing.

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod414.htm

Push 18psi or so though it.. Should be a nice streetable turbo on the rb20. :P

cheers for the input all. i spoke to someone who sells garret turbo's and they recomended a gt3540R.

whats everyone else's opinion on that?

ta. James.

Your kidding right? :P

Two pointers for you in relation to that

1) Tell that person they are a retard.

2) Dont ever talk to them again

Take the advice in this thread. Horsepowerinabox item looks quite nice aswell. Very well suited with the .64

im with ash + others

why have you asked for help and then chosen to cleary ignore it?

i think you need to get a few things straight

what do u want out of the car?

quick street? quick drag?

do you want to just make max power or average power?

how much money do you have?

I've had a good look at the compressor maps.

If you want to start pushing more than 19-20psi through the 48trim 71mm Comp wheel consider stepping up to the slightly laggier 52trim that will be fine for up to around 24psi and a few more horses.

I personally would stay away from the 56trim comp wheel.

But if you can pick up a good s/h hksgt2530 thats obviously a tried and proven responsive turbo. For a little more power on pump fuel the gt2871 48 - 52trim is worth while. :P

firstly: paul, i was not ignoring yours and others advice. please dont take it like that, i was simply exploring other options.

secondly: a daily driver that ill be taking to drag events.

all in all i intend to spend 3 grand on the turbo (tops, like if i had to pay for manifold. gaskets. ditting kit or whatever.)

thirdly: i apologise if my ignorance is frustrating yall more experienced people.

cheers. james

With your budget:

3inch turbo back exhaust, get a knock off front pipe, new 3inch cat and second hand jap 3" cat back ~850-900 installed, or consider a full x force system for about the same money.

Intercooler and piping kit off Nissan Silvia sponsors for about 450, install yourself. If you can do your own pipework you will save some money there.

Second hand r33 turbo, install yourself 350-400 plus $50 for gaskets.

Leaves you with about 200.

Buy an adjustable actuator with it.

The car will run reasonably well assuming your fuel pump is ok, if not another 200 to replace it.

Find another 3-400 and have a chat with dr drift about a remap of the stock ecu.

Forget about the emange, forget about the head gasket, forget about the garrett turbos, forget about the bov. you cant afford them with your budget.

This is based on your initial 2k budget. It'll cosy about 2.5k though.

With the 3k you could look at s/h highflow turbos

Edited by BHDave

You sure about that GT2871R turbo selection cubes? They're not exactly super responsive responsive on the SR20 so I would imagine the RB20 would be a bit worse. Maybe the 71mm 48 trim might be alright but... its definitely less responsive than having a 60mm compressor.

I would say GT28RS if you couldnt get your hands on a GT2530! But you'll need a T3-T28 flange adapter IIRC.

alright then. so its decided.

A GT2871R with .64 housing anf 48 trim.

thanks guys youve been really helpful. :rofl:

but what will need to be done (besides bigger cooler and exhaust) to fit it? ie: what parts will i need to buy with it? does it have a T3 flange thingo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...