Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought a fairly stock 1989 r32 and have a few grand spare to either get a rb25 conversion or to just make my car pretty..(e.g wheels,bodykit) At the moment it has the typical mods, AVO front mount, BOV, r33 turbo,

A friend of a friend offered to install an rb25 for $2500 (is this cheap??) I am not very mechanically minded so my main concern is whether i need to spend more money on upgrading other components to with stand the new engine.???

Secondly, is it really going to make much difference in power..Or am i better off spending $2500 on other mods.

If the power difference is not that noticable then i would prefer to make the car look a bit prettier first.

If anyone has any advice that would be ace.....i have tried for hours on the forums and found similar topics but nothing with the answers im looking for...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114144-rb25-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

Ok first things first...Predator on this forum is going through this now, So I would shhot him a PM about the costs ect

I have a R32 with RB25 and R33 gearbox that makes just over 200rwkw....and I have gotta say it is awesome!!! I have owned a r33 aswell and I could not beleive how good the rb25 is in a lighter car...the good news is you will be able to swap most of the mods you already have over to the rb25 so you wont have to have a stock rb25 either!!!

So yeah the conversion is really worth it in my opinion

i got a 32 imported from japan that has a rb25 in it, its my 3rd r32 and the first ive owned with an rb25 and mate the power difference is unreal, but i think the best thing about having the rb25 is the potential u have to make big power over the rb20. if i was choosing looks or power id definitely be going the rb25 over a new set of wheels. just depends how much u like your rice :laugh:

$2500 is cheap considering you will need obviously an engine, modified loom and a new ECU, the engine will need to come with injectors AFM etc. Then you have to worry about the additional torque that the RB25 makes and what effect it may have on thegearbox. Some ppl get lucky and have gearboxes that hold together at higher power and torque levels, others prove delicate and break just driving normally. Also check with local vehicle registry to ensure the transplant is legal, as you will need to chnage the engine details on your rego and may be pulled up if they pick it is a larger displacement engine...which depending who you are insured with may also have its share of problems. Seems to be a good upgrade though if you can get a healthy engine installed for so little an outlay.

spend the money on the performance.. visual mods just attract attention and in the end don't make a better driving experience.

$2500 is not bad price if that includes the engine? the swap itself is easy and the guts of it can be done in a weekend.

mine's taken longer, as I've converted mine to manual and just fixing or replacing the smaller things, tracking down those missing hoses, etc to make sure the engine will be reliable with hard use... and the fact I am working out the wiring very slowly :laugh:

you can also realise some of the benefits on an rb25.. replacement parts easier to track down as r33 everywhere, tuners more familiar with rb25's, rb25 powerfc cheaper, certain parts are no longer made for rb20, etc later on down the track.

I'm going to write a full guide with photos, etc when mine is done..

If the 2500 includes the engine, then do it.

If your mate is charging you 2500 for the install only then punch him in the chops.

I installed my own and including the cost of the engine had it installed, wired and running a new timing belt and water pump for about 2500 all up. I still run the rb20 box.

If i were you, i'd consider spending money on suspension and tyres at this point as you already have a fairly nice setup that only really needs an ecu upgrade to give a nice responsive 190rwkw. A stock r33 engine will put you back to the exact same point you are at now with only a bit of bottom end poke added

yeah, bhdave has a point.. little point doing the swap unless you have everything at a suitable standard. No point running an rb25 with everything else totally stock.

even though I had my rb25 sitting there for a while, it wasn't until I had the full exhaust system, intercooler, some suspension, slightly larger turbo and brake mods in place to bother doing it.

Thanks guys, i really appreciate your comments...

For now i think im gonna stick with the rb20 and improve it.....

Until (if) the motor actually decides to shit itself, then i will think about the conversion cause it's probably not worth fixing somethinmg that aint broke....

Cheers...

P.S still open to any other suggestions that may change my mind!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...