Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im hoping to be there in a few weeks!!! I have all the parts I need now I just need someone to bolt the suckers on!!

I imagine there is a fair few people on this forum who are around this mark!!

Yep 378rwkw on 23psi, with a lame tune, 2 degrees less timing than what

we would run, and 11.5 a/f ratios. I have somehow become head tester of these Electronic Jatco's. I broke the first version(blew 2nd gear hub to pieces)

after the first 4 days of 315rwkw on 16psi. I now have the first aftermarket hub, 3 times stronger than the original. The clutches seem to be coping with the power. The problem i am having now, is the box is selecting 2nd and the first clutch in 3rd at the same time, and i keep losing gears for no reason then they come back. Mike is currently designing a new shift servo to fix this, while

the car is getting painted. I make 680nm of torque(around 10,500N) in top gear (3rd), the car physically will not stay on the dyno in 2nd.

The massive torque hit with the GT42 is what killed the 2nd gear hub.

cheers

darren

Edited by S3_Girl
eeeeww auto

Absolute wanker...the car would be ALOT slower from a standing start or actually even a roll on

with a manual, it would just wheelspin on the spot keeping up with 12 sec cars :P,waste of money.

But i have full traction now once it hits second, and it is a animal on the street, bikes hate it :(

cheers

darren

hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :worship: my daily/tow car is auto tho :D

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :D but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :)

Edited by shy_s6
hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :( my daily/tow car is auto tho :laugh:

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :( but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :P

What george and theo/gt autosound car.....everyones there mates aren't they :(

Full weight, manual supras have gone 8.9 at 170mph in the states........that's impressive.

while you might think 350rwkw in a manual street car is very driveable, i can tell you

while it feels fast, the 12 sec ls1 will still be door handle to door handle with you on the street,

and the auto will be 300m down the rd, before you have stopped spinning, i see this every weekend.

My mates have nearly all taken the manuals out of there cars for autos now, as they got sick of

getting waxed by nearly stock auto vl turbos, with baby converters and coolers.

I am running a stock converter at the moment 4 dr, i have a 3500rpm one here, but it is to hard to

tune the car on the dyno as it is, with all the line pressure behind it. Once fully tuned i will fit it.

I will probally put a KEAS 3 speed in it with a transbrake next though, if this trans gives me anymore probs.

For your combo, i would probally put a 2800rpm behind it, i had one before. It seems to be the biggest you

can go before it affects general driveability, and it still locks up on the highway ok, i drove to Melbourne

and back with mine, it wasn't bad., Good street converter.

cheers

darren

my mate has an auto HSV GTO LE and its 257kw at wheels (im 175 rwkw), and from take off he kills me in first, to abou 1.5 car lengths, then in 2nd gear i keep with him till abuot 4th then he breaks away to about 2-3 car lengths.

then we tried rolling start at 40kmh, i kept with him to about 3rd when he started breaking away to about 1 car length.

so yeh autos have big advandage (n so does the extra 80 kws lol)

Sorry i don't get me wrong i appreaciate drag racing.........but lets face it, it's for people that cant drive around corners :mad: and besides we have cars that are made for turning, whether it be hills racing(togue), track racing or drifting. I say if you wanna race in a straight line buy a commo or a falcon, because they don't handle well at all, but hey thats my point(waiting to get blasted by the draggers :P ), But like i said i DO appreaciate the stomping V8's with a massive charger out the bonnet, I think they are all good!

A serious racing team would use a manual, but I havnt noticed any problems keeping up with any of you guys through the hills. I select my gears manually rather than leave it in drive, and I have the torque you are lacking whenI need it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...