Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im hoping to be there in a few weeks!!! I have all the parts I need now I just need someone to bolt the suckers on!!

I imagine there is a fair few people on this forum who are around this mark!!

Yep 378rwkw on 23psi, with a lame tune, 2 degrees less timing than what

we would run, and 11.5 a/f ratios. I have somehow become head tester of these Electronic Jatco's. I broke the first version(blew 2nd gear hub to pieces)

after the first 4 days of 315rwkw on 16psi. I now have the first aftermarket hub, 3 times stronger than the original. The clutches seem to be coping with the power. The problem i am having now, is the box is selecting 2nd and the first clutch in 3rd at the same time, and i keep losing gears for no reason then they come back. Mike is currently designing a new shift servo to fix this, while

the car is getting painted. I make 680nm of torque(around 10,500N) in top gear (3rd), the car physically will not stay on the dyno in 2nd.

The massive torque hit with the GT42 is what killed the 2nd gear hub.

cheers

darren

Edited by S3_Girl
eeeeww auto

Absolute wanker...the car would be ALOT slower from a standing start or actually even a roll on

with a manual, it would just wheelspin on the spot keeping up with 12 sec cars :P,waste of money.

But i have full traction now once it hits second, and it is a animal on the street, bikes hate it :(

cheers

darren

hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :worship: my daily/tow car is auto tho :D

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :D but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :)

Edited by shy_s6
hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :( my daily/tow car is auto tho :laugh:

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :( but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :P

What george and theo/gt autosound car.....everyones there mates aren't they :(

Full weight, manual supras have gone 8.9 at 170mph in the states........that's impressive.

while you might think 350rwkw in a manual street car is very driveable, i can tell you

while it feels fast, the 12 sec ls1 will still be door handle to door handle with you on the street,

and the auto will be 300m down the rd, before you have stopped spinning, i see this every weekend.

My mates have nearly all taken the manuals out of there cars for autos now, as they got sick of

getting waxed by nearly stock auto vl turbos, with baby converters and coolers.

I am running a stock converter at the moment 4 dr, i have a 3500rpm one here, but it is to hard to

tune the car on the dyno as it is, with all the line pressure behind it. Once fully tuned i will fit it.

I will probally put a KEAS 3 speed in it with a transbrake next though, if this trans gives me anymore probs.

For your combo, i would probally put a 2800rpm behind it, i had one before. It seems to be the biggest you

can go before it affects general driveability, and it still locks up on the highway ok, i drove to Melbourne

and back with mine, it wasn't bad., Good street converter.

cheers

darren

my mate has an auto HSV GTO LE and its 257kw at wheels (im 175 rwkw), and from take off he kills me in first, to abou 1.5 car lengths, then in 2nd gear i keep with him till abuot 4th then he breaks away to about 2-3 car lengths.

then we tried rolling start at 40kmh, i kept with him to about 3rd when he started breaking away to about 1 car length.

so yeh autos have big advandage (n so does the extra 80 kws lol)

Sorry i don't get me wrong i appreaciate drag racing.........but lets face it, it's for people that cant drive around corners :mad: and besides we have cars that are made for turning, whether it be hills racing(togue), track racing or drifting. I say if you wanna race in a straight line buy a commo or a falcon, because they don't handle well at all, but hey thats my point(waiting to get blasted by the draggers :P ), But like i said i DO appreaciate the stomping V8's with a massive charger out the bonnet, I think they are all good!

A serious racing team would use a manual, but I havnt noticed any problems keeping up with any of you guys through the hills. I select my gears manually rather than leave it in drive, and I have the torque you are lacking whenI need it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...