Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im hoping to be there in a few weeks!!! I have all the parts I need now I just need someone to bolt the suckers on!!

I imagine there is a fair few people on this forum who are around this mark!!

Yep 378rwkw on 23psi, with a lame tune, 2 degrees less timing than what

we would run, and 11.5 a/f ratios. I have somehow become head tester of these Electronic Jatco's. I broke the first version(blew 2nd gear hub to pieces)

after the first 4 days of 315rwkw on 16psi. I now have the first aftermarket hub, 3 times stronger than the original. The clutches seem to be coping with the power. The problem i am having now, is the box is selecting 2nd and the first clutch in 3rd at the same time, and i keep losing gears for no reason then they come back. Mike is currently designing a new shift servo to fix this, while

the car is getting painted. I make 680nm of torque(around 10,500N) in top gear (3rd), the car physically will not stay on the dyno in 2nd.

The massive torque hit with the GT42 is what killed the 2nd gear hub.

cheers

darren

Edited by S3_Girl
eeeeww auto

Absolute wanker...the car would be ALOT slower from a standing start or actually even a roll on

with a manual, it would just wheelspin on the spot keeping up with 12 sec cars :P,waste of money.

But i have full traction now once it hits second, and it is a animal on the street, bikes hate it :(

cheers

darren

hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :worship: my daily/tow car is auto tho :D

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :D but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :)

Edited by shy_s6
hehe im just stirrin much prefer to drive a car then just stand on the gas :( my daily/tow car is auto tho :laugh:

guys i know ran 10.3 with there manual s15 :( but now they gone auto cause they runnin lots n lots of power but 250-350rwkw is very drivable in manual mode :P

What george and theo/gt autosound car.....everyones there mates aren't they :(

Full weight, manual supras have gone 8.9 at 170mph in the states........that's impressive.

while you might think 350rwkw in a manual street car is very driveable, i can tell you

while it feels fast, the 12 sec ls1 will still be door handle to door handle with you on the street,

and the auto will be 300m down the rd, before you have stopped spinning, i see this every weekend.

My mates have nearly all taken the manuals out of there cars for autos now, as they got sick of

getting waxed by nearly stock auto vl turbos, with baby converters and coolers.

I am running a stock converter at the moment 4 dr, i have a 3500rpm one here, but it is to hard to

tune the car on the dyno as it is, with all the line pressure behind it. Once fully tuned i will fit it.

I will probally put a KEAS 3 speed in it with a transbrake next though, if this trans gives me anymore probs.

For your combo, i would probally put a 2800rpm behind it, i had one before. It seems to be the biggest you

can go before it affects general driveability, and it still locks up on the highway ok, i drove to Melbourne

and back with mine, it wasn't bad., Good street converter.

cheers

darren

my mate has an auto HSV GTO LE and its 257kw at wheels (im 175 rwkw), and from take off he kills me in first, to abou 1.5 car lengths, then in 2nd gear i keep with him till abuot 4th then he breaks away to about 2-3 car lengths.

then we tried rolling start at 40kmh, i kept with him to about 3rd when he started breaking away to about 1 car length.

so yeh autos have big advandage (n so does the extra 80 kws lol)

Sorry i don't get me wrong i appreaciate drag racing.........but lets face it, it's for people that cant drive around corners :mad: and besides we have cars that are made for turning, whether it be hills racing(togue), track racing or drifting. I say if you wanna race in a straight line buy a commo or a falcon, because they don't handle well at all, but hey thats my point(waiting to get blasted by the draggers :P ), But like i said i DO appreaciate the stomping V8's with a massive charger out the bonnet, I think they are all good!

A serious racing team would use a manual, but I havnt noticed any problems keeping up with any of you guys through the hills. I select my gears manually rather than leave it in drive, and I have the torque you are lacking whenI need it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...