Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I wanted to know is it possible to get a 2 piece caliper/2 piston with a sliding plate system setup for a R33 GTST. I currently have the standard calipers for a R33 GTST which most of you are aware is a 1 piece caliper with 4 pistons.

Any feed back would great.

Cheers

Babylon.

you would have to use the smaller disc but

orrr use v35 skyline gt brakes (the povo version/non brembo) im pretty sure they are a 298mm disc so the calipers should bolt up

i dont want to change my disc's if i dont need to the issue is i want to change my standard calipers to a 2 piston setup and not lose any braking power just wanted to know if that was possible.

WHY? what is wrong with the 4 piston ones you have? moving to a sliding caliper is a bad move.

Beer Baron that’s exactly what i think

The reason i ask guys is that my Break Squeaking issue has come up again.. and ive taken the car to 2 brake\clutch specialist

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=73439&hl=

1st has advised that i need to replace my discs but cant guarantee the noise will go away and to be honest I don’t want to spend $800 on a issue that “may solve the problem”.

2nd has advised Slotted Discs will not solve the issue. Noise might get even worse.

My uncle the mechanic who is helping me with this has different opinions he believes its the callipers that are causing this issue he wants to see if I can get different system to the standard one Basically im trying to prove him wrong.

What state are you in. The Nissan 4 pot caliper is superior to any twin piston sliding caliper, dotn even think about it, it will be expensive and a drop in brake performance.

Next move is go to another brake place. If the rotors are true and above thickness then leave them be. Any brake guy worth his mustard will get rid of the squeel for far less then what you have quoted for replacement rotors...it shoudlnt be difficult...just need an experience brake guy to spend the 60 mins to fix your problem

Let's see, there are around 4,000 Skylines in Australia and over 2 million in Japan with this style of calliper. Miraculously you are the ONE with brake squeel that can't be fixed.

I don't think so Tim.

:) cheers :O

Correct me if I'm wrong on this, people, but this is my understanding:

The whole reason for using more pistons in a caliper is to get more braking force through greater surface coverage when you apply the anchors, more friction, and (as a by-product) more heat transfer.

Reducing the number of pistons acting on your brake pads means less even wear of the pads, and most probably the discs, as well as more potential for disc warping (depending on the size of the pads in relation to the pistons).

Thanks guys that’s exactly what i assumed i told my uncle that im down grading my brakes by doing that

i just needed a confirmation.... im in Sydney West.. im just going to take the car to another Brake place someone that is actually willing to put time into the problem (any recommendations?)

Thanks again

Babylon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...