Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I wanted to know is it possible to get a 2 piece caliper/2 piston with a sliding plate system setup for a R33 GTST. I currently have the standard calipers for a R33 GTST which most of you are aware is a 1 piece caliper with 4 pistons.

Any feed back would great.

Cheers

Babylon.

you would have to use the smaller disc but

orrr use v35 skyline gt brakes (the povo version/non brembo) im pretty sure they are a 298mm disc so the calipers should bolt up

i dont want to change my disc's if i dont need to the issue is i want to change my standard calipers to a 2 piston setup and not lose any braking power just wanted to know if that was possible.

WHY? what is wrong with the 4 piston ones you have? moving to a sliding caliper is a bad move.

Beer Baron that’s exactly what i think

The reason i ask guys is that my Break Squeaking issue has come up again.. and ive taken the car to 2 brake\clutch specialist

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=73439&hl=

1st has advised that i need to replace my discs but cant guarantee the noise will go away and to be honest I don’t want to spend $800 on a issue that “may solve the problem”.

2nd has advised Slotted Discs will not solve the issue. Noise might get even worse.

My uncle the mechanic who is helping me with this has different opinions he believes its the callipers that are causing this issue he wants to see if I can get different system to the standard one Basically im trying to prove him wrong.

What state are you in. The Nissan 4 pot caliper is superior to any twin piston sliding caliper, dotn even think about it, it will be expensive and a drop in brake performance.

Next move is go to another brake place. If the rotors are true and above thickness then leave them be. Any brake guy worth his mustard will get rid of the squeel for far less then what you have quoted for replacement rotors...it shoudlnt be difficult...just need an experience brake guy to spend the 60 mins to fix your problem

Let's see, there are around 4,000 Skylines in Australia and over 2 million in Japan with this style of calliper. Miraculously you are the ONE with brake squeel that can't be fixed.

I don't think so Tim.

:) cheers :O

Correct me if I'm wrong on this, people, but this is my understanding:

The whole reason for using more pistons in a caliper is to get more braking force through greater surface coverage when you apply the anchors, more friction, and (as a by-product) more heat transfer.

Reducing the number of pistons acting on your brake pads means less even wear of the pads, and most probably the discs, as well as more potential for disc warping (depending on the size of the pads in relation to the pistons).

Thanks guys that’s exactly what i assumed i told my uncle that im down grading my brakes by doing that

i just needed a confirmation.... im in Sydney West.. im just going to take the car to another Brake place someone that is actually willing to put time into the problem (any recommendations?)

Thanks again

Babylon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, I’m a veteran detailer with years of hands-on experience. I’ll be sharing quick, effective detailing tips to help you keep your Skyline (or any ride) looking its best. Got a question? Fire away!
    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
×
×
  • Create New...