Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 bar = 14.7 psi.

A lot of stock cars don't pull any more than 140 rwkw which is close to your mark.

Often adding mods doesn't increases power. The stock Ecu is really weak, as soon as you start adding more boost and flowing air you can actually lose power. Depending on the car some take 9psi -10psi ok but others don't gain much and the stock ecu retards the timing and richens the fuel mixture.

1. You should have a dyno plot of the AFR (air fuel ratio) - I bet it is rich.

2. Plus yor boost trails off a lot. Take off the ebc and see if the boost holds (should be 5psi) - If you connect up the old standard solenoid and leavie it wired open you should get 7-8psi that only drops maybe 1 psi. If this doesn't then maybe your actuator is playing up or your turbo needs a look at.

Either way don't believe what people get on dynos..there can be a 30-40rwkw difference I think. SOme people claim 180rwkw on near stock cars

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

looks very flat...

going in for another run in 4th (the way its supposed to be done) next week sometime (only has a cat back atm) so i'll see how it compares to what you've got

May be hard to get a power reading in 4th in a stock car. You could quite possible hit the 180km/h speed limiter before max power, so if this is the case then it is pretty pointless.

The gear does not matter dick, if you knew anything about dyno's you would know that. Its merely better to tune them in this gear as the ratios are closest to 1:1. Fact of the matter is a power run in 3rd will only move the graph left, ie at a lower speed...

Also its amazing how many "happy" dyno's are around and how many "supurb" results happen.

Sammie

I would look into why your getting a low result, maybe a restriction, drop the exhaust after a run on the same dyno and compare, there may also be other factors that you can try.

The gear does matter as the higher the gear the faster the acceleration hence the more the power. I do believe that there are some happy dyno's around and I think thats what dezz saw, as the a car that crept up off the rear rollers due to the higher torque gear; hence the high reading.

il hava look tommorow however just recently got a high flow xforce cat installed well heres a pic of what im trying to tell u guys that tubing which i hav indicated was not connected and my mate thought it would be leaking so he got some strong kart fuel line and connected it then i started boosting however i a little to much hit 1 bar where as my ebc is set to 11 psi any thoughts ?

post-25164-1146137234.jpg

Man i would love to know how you guys are getting 182rw/kw from a stock GTST... sorry to say but sounds to me the dyno tuner is playing with the roller settings just to make you think you got 182rw/kw... or maybe ur reading the dyno wrong... could be in HP not KW... read the dyno thread and there are guys with full exhaust, FMIC, boost struggling to hit the 180+rw/kw... either way post a dyno graph...

As for your car sammie, maybe the bov was the issue in boost leak? if you can feel better power now, that may have been your problem...

Cheers,

Sarkis

Also, just looking at your dyno graph.

Air temp was 17deg's and your intake temp was 37deg's.

That seems like a large jump to me, considering you have a FMIC.

To give you an idea, my run, on 12psi showed something like 30deg air temp and 34deg intake temp, a jump of only 4degrees.

Fixxxer

hmm guys this is real hard to explain but went to see aguy i knew had a look at the dyno sheet and looked under the bonnet for leaks etc he looked at the stock bov and saw that it wasnt blocked cause i hav after market bov connected near the pod he put some tubing on the end of it and connected it to another tubing line which is connected to the throttle body sorry im not good with motors but as i was saying i drove it and this time it actually felt like it was boosted however hit 1 bar so i let off straight away he turned my ebc off and i drove it was hitting .8 bar and felt much much better i could tell because the bov was much louder and could hear the pressure releasing alot more however in 3rd gear it almost hits 1 bar which i was told is veryvery unsafe for my car so i just putted my way home any ideas ?

and the workshop didnt notice this but some random mate noticed? sounds about right, i had plenty of problems with my rb26 only managing 180rwhp (on 18psi too) on the same dyno and 20 power runs later they didnt have a clue (i said to one of the mechanics/part owners to check timing and he said i qoute "set and forget") and they blamed my brand new highflowed turbos, so i got them rechecked (took engine out to get em off) and plenty of pissin around and put em back on after they were checked and back to the dyno and guess what... 180rwhp again, so luckily the same mechanic was away so i made the other one check the timing after a bit of pleading as he obviously thought it was also abit too dificult to even bother, and it was out by 20 degrees and he fixed the timing and then it got 350rwhp. they dont like picking up tools when tuning i noticed on every single occasion i was there. my old mans supercharged commodore had a slipping supercharger belt and they didnt even bother to try and tighten it, and instead tuned it on the low 5psi and let it slip at higher revs. slack is all that describes it.

just my experience , dont beleive the hype, beleive the work u actually have seen, as plenty of people open their gob and reccomend before they even use workshops.

yea i know what u mean my mate said im surprised no one picked up on it and my old man is quit annoyed that the place i took my car to didnt see it however even with a after market bov near my pod is the stock bov still supposed to hav tubing connecting to the throttlebody/plenum ?

Also, just looking at your dyno graph.

Air temp was 17deg's and your intake temp was 37deg's.

That seems like a large jump to me, considering you have a FMIC.

To give you an idea, my run, on 12psi showed something like 30deg air temp and 34deg intake temp, a jump of only 4degrees.

Fixxxer

So I take it "IT" on the dyno graph represents intake temp? If so, then I have a graph which shows 30deg air temp and 28deg intake temp. Work that one out. I think they measured it from the air filter, does this sound right?

Some Rbs do make 180+rwkw,did one this month that made that kind of power and it ran 13.0@180ks so the power was quite real.China cooler, cat back and Safc.

As for Air temps, the probe goes next to the air filter and there can be a huge differance in temps from exhausts etc.If this was not true no one would make cold air intakes.

call into top racing and have a chat to steve (NIB) and the other guys and they will sort u out, they are the most helpful business in the car community, thankfully theres one decent shop around, with good knowledge and they can actually solve problems and not send u home to sort them yourself. :)

What you need to check and probably what they didn't

1. Boost leak - if there is a slight leak you might still get the boost pressure its showing. you will also notice the mixture being rich as.

2. Base timing - if it 10 degress retarded then you will have no power.

3. Exhaust restriction - check your cat hasn't melted (If its been heavily retarded the standard ecu has enough fuel in the top end to destroy you cat).

4. Check plug quality and tension make sure there is no arc(white marks) on any of the boots thats if it missing.

Really need more information on what has been done and what they found. Go and ask them for every dyno sheet displaying AFR and boost. Also get a duty cycle value on the boost control solenoid. If its 100% DC then something is wrong - exhaust restriction, f**ked turbo or a leak.

Edited by rob82
bit of a bugger im in w.a lol i just really wanna knwo if i should hav tubing from the stock bov to the plenum or not and yesi do hava after markter bov and wandering why my boost is going over then wat i hav set it to on the ebc

top racing is in WA, in bentley.

i cant remember the address off the top of my head, Capel street i think from memory

also Rob82, ive tried asking for afr graphs and got refused so i dont hold much luck for Samie, though i think they refused because my engine just detonated and cracked a piston ringland after a tune, and they were covering their backs.

Edited by CruiseLiner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...