Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D for the street/old pac drivers. and for the track.

due to a couple of friends of mine loosing there engines from a simple lack of oil i thought id post up a easy guide on how to keep your engine from poping...

GTR OWNERS: when you change your oil, fill the carnt thing up to the hump on the dipstick.

this works out to be roughly 6 to 6.5 litres of oil.

if the oil level is on high. it will surge just acelerating in first gear. (not to mention corners)

i have done thorough testing of this and can asure you all that this quantity of oil is the MINIMUM that is required to combat oil surge in a standard sumped gtr.also a tomie baffeld one to.(makes no differance if its

baffeled or not.) (mechanical oil presure guages dont lie)

now. im not a fan of motul oils. but hey you guys love the shiet so yeah.

using a good quality synthetic oil with a cold rating of less than 15. and a hot rating of 50 or more is the go.

eg 5w60 penrite is my personal favorite. its the only one i have used that can stand up to a whole track day without "breaking down"

GTS-T OWNERS your cars have a much better sump design so you can get away with using abit less oil. 5.5-6 litres of oil is suficant. the rwd sumps still have poor bafeling anyway. so fill them to just before the hump on the dipstick.

so summing it up PUT OIL IN YOUR ENGINE its not hard to fill er up abit over full. it does no damage to the engine. it just keeps all those legs in bed.

so following this instruction it will extend the life or your RB by a long mark

the same rules aply to any RB powerd car with the standard CAPACITY sump

ps.. moderator please leave in nsw section as it is aimed at our own circle. cheeres :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115490-keeping-that-engine-alive/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

But you don't recomment this for the street do you?

I changed my oil recently and as I had a track day coming in a few weeks I overfilled. Car goes fine, a bit more oil in the catch can (or spewing out of it in my case since it is a crap can) but the one thing I noticed is that when I start it up in the morning (or stone cold anyway) it burns oil for about 3-5 minutes. I can see it coming out the exhaust and my garage fills with fumes.

It didn't do this before. Can you explain it and is it ok?

yes. the same aplies

Mine has a oil controll problem at the moment... we built this RB30DET over 2.5 years ago and we did not know to block one of the oil feeds and put a restrictor so if i had more oil in the engine i would have an oil fountain lol

getting this done in the next month or so

i think you may have wire crossed steve-o. surge tank is used to combat fuel surge. there is no realy way to add an external surge tank for oil without going dry sump, in which case it's still not realyl a surge tank, just an oil, holding tank.

generally sump baffles are the way to go to help combat oil surge as they attempt to prevent oil from flowing away from the pick-up, or even better a larger sump and baffles, or at the extreme, dry sump. the only reason not everyone has them is fitting the sump baffles requires engine removal.

Yeah i thought that just after i posted it up - couldnt be bothered deleting it

Thanks richo - so far no fuel issues (touch wood) other than that damn fuel cap - it started leaking again today !!! but its only on very hard cornering

Mine has a oil controll problem at the moment... we built this RB30DET over 2.5 years ago and we did not know to block one of the oil feeds and put a restrictor so if i had more oil in the engine i would have an oil fountain lol

getting this done in the next month or so

you wont get any more oil up there than normal. instead you will be pumping oil thru the motor not air!!

this is what people dont understand...

but if you wanna pull the head off to try and kinda make a diferance go rite ahead :(

Turbine and I just pulled my GTS4 RB20DET out this weekend and found that 4& 6 BigEnds were totaly cooked and stuffed from lack of oil.

Have had clattering noise for some time now and oil gauge always mostly reads very low but sometimes full scale so just dismissed the oil gauge sender as faulty which is common fault have been told.

Mostly filled to under high level so prob not enough for AWD GTS4 which has same sump as GTR & Stagea.

Over filling probably may not have saved my RB20 but it may have made it last longer so I will be filling my next motor up higher.

I am looking for a Stagea RB25DET if anyone knows of a near complete motor less Gbox.

Well if GTR's suffered from oil surge... this thread would actually be right

But they dont, the sump design is actually quite good.

The killing of bearings etc is due to other reasons, certainly not oil surge

A topic comes to mid actually... i love the search button :O

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110680&hl=

What oil is best for a 33gtst with only a turbo-back, front mount, pod and boost controller?

Try doing a search - there's a million threads on this (particularly in General Maintenance and Forced Induction)

For the record, I use Elf Excellium 5W-40 Full Synthetic

In saying that, I think a fair few people on here use Motul 300V Chrono, 8100 Excess or 4100 Turbolight - there's many to choose from that will do the job. Do the search and figure out what suits you best.

I guess it comes down to how much you want to pay, how modded your car is and how you use your car (i.e sunday driver, daily commuter or weekend warrior for example).

Update on an oil problem no-one could have fixed!

Found the reason for my oil problems - the back plate on the oil pump had come virtually off and most of the screws had come out!!

As this is inside the AWD sump and needed the complete block top be removed to identify the problem.

HOT DAMN!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...