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Hey all,

I've had my R32 GTS-T for a while now, and as a daily driver it's been left pretty much stock in the engine department (3 inch cat back and K&N pod is all). Don't get me wrong, I love the RB20, but for a car that very rarely sees above 4500 rpms in daily usage (commuting to work etc.), I'm starting to feel the pain of a lack of sub-3000rpm pull. What I want is more torque!!!

I figure futher intake and exhaust mods will get the turbo spooling quicker, but I am not sure I will get the results I am looking for from an internally stock RB20DET. So I was thinking maybe high compression pisons (2.0 litres), a stroker kit (2.2 or 2.4 litres), an internally standard RB25DET swap or a high compression RB30DET build. I figure it could be done RELATIVELY cheaply seeming I am only after low RPM gains, rather than big top end gains. A peak of 200-220rwhp would be satisfactory (although any more would be nice :) ), but strong torque everywhere is what I really want!. I'm not trying to tow a combine harvester, and I'm not chasing Corvette LS7 engine levels of stump pulling sub-3000rpm grunt. Something closer to a healthy manual ECOTEC VT Commo or similar at sub-3000rpms (no flaming for that comment!).

Only kicking around some ideas at the moment, and was wondering if anyone had some suggestions or input. Or critisism. Or pwnage. Or whatever. I just want torque without going overkill on the engine build!

:O And no suggesting a 3.8L ECOTEC conversion. My ECOTEC ute driving brother has already suggested that. :O

Edited by Big Rizza
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obviously a capacity increase if what you need.

So its RB25, RB30et or RB30DET

And all of those have been covered to death :)

Set your budget, and pick whichever falls into it really

An RB30et will put 150rwkw on a stock turbo.

Engine + ECU etc can be had for 2k

Hmmm... for some reason I hadn't considered the RB30et, and only thought of an RB30DET build. The RB30et would certainly satisfy all criteria I have laid down i.e. more torque with no loss of top end power. Cheers!

But a commodore engine in a skyline? :)

Edited by Big Rizza

2.4ltr stroker kit, provide u with a lot more talk, not too hard to achieve either.....well to 2.3 anyway

GTR crank and rods, and maybe pistons too for the hell of it, changing to a RB25 or sumthing like that is a good solution, but y not crank ur current engine

if i was in this situation, i doubt i would swap in an RB30ET. i feel as if this is a down grade in engine. sure you get your torque and all the rest, but it just wouldnt sit right with me. the way i would go about it would probably be a 2.4L stroker kit and possibly a bolt on turbo, maybe a GT2530 or KKR 330?. (as well supporting mods) or even with out the stroker, go for something like the GT2510 or something small that will kick in pretty early in the rev range. give you some much needed low-mid range power/torque. the 2510 will make 200rwkw (more or less depending on variables) which the RB20 will make with stock injectors or at least 440cc/min.

just a final thought that i will probably get FLAMMED HARD CORE for this seeing that it is a toyota and this is a nissan forum, but ever thought of the 1JZ? very similar engine to the RB26. cheaper, no hassle of swaping the RB26 into RWD mode?

just some food for thought.

good luck with you decision

brendan

try http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095 for more ideas, with out stroking

Edited by NMD

The RB25 with better flowing 4 valve cylinder head and high static compression ratio of 9.0:1 makes up for the 500cc it lacks compared to a factory RB30ET, which is only 2 valve and a 7.8:1 static compression ratio.

Either bolt in a complete RB25DET or throw an RB25 cylinder head onto a wrecker RB30 and enjoy the torque wave!

Should be able to easily do both for $3K if you are handy with the tools.

Should be able to easily do both for $3K if you are handy with the tools.

Not sayign you are wrong...but can you do some quick numbers to show how it can be done for 3k (RB30) I havce a gut feel that those about to do it say 3k, but most ppl who do it will tell you its costs more?!?!?!?!

Not sayign you are wrong...but can you do some quick numbers to show how it can be done for 3k (RB30) I havce a gut feel that those about to do it say 3k, but most ppl who do it will tell you its costs more?!?!?!?!

It does cost more then 3k. people are spending more money then that on bottom ends. I got mine done really cheap 3 years ago nearly and it cost me about 4.5k (mates rates) and i used standard cast pistons.

if i was in this situation, i doubt i would swap in an RB30ET. i feel as if this is a down grade in engine. sure you get your torque and all the rest, but it just wouldnt sit right with me. the way i would go about it would probably be a 2.4L stroker kit and possibly a bolt on turbo, maybe a GT2530 or KKR 330?.

just a final thought that i will probably get FLAMMED HARD CORE for this seeing that it is a toyota and this is a nissan forum, but ever thought of the 1JZ? very similar engine to the RB26. cheaper, no hassle of swaping the RB26 into RWD mode?

1) you want to stroke the motor, then put a larger turbo onto it?

Its kinda pointless. You'd want to leave the stock turbo on there.

2) Converting an RB26 to RWD? What you mean? Its a simple case of bolting it to a gearbox.

I've certainly have no hassle, neither have the other countless people.

Also to think about is the layout of the 1jz... its opposite to an RB :D

So in effect, its more hassle as you have to have custom exhaust piping made, etc etc etc etc etc.

I cant see how you can pass that off as a "less hassle" alternative

Modded 26 sump... i wouldnt call it a "hassle" when you drop it off and get it back a couple days later

certainly easier (cheaper) than getting an exhaust re-routed to suit a motor that is opposite to what a car is desienged for :D

sequential turbo setup! nos! cams! lightened flywheel! weight reduction!

er... just get an rb25..

by the time you dick with everything the rb25 is the laziest solution for torque and response.. the rb26 lazier still.. just more initial outlay.

it doesn't cost much if you can do the work yourself. If you can lift out an rb20 you can lift *in* an rb25 just as easily. It just requires a bit of faith in the engine. Buy one off some kid who stacked his non-insured r33 for instance, that was driving around fine 2 weeks before.

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