Need Help With My Rb25, Its Screwed! :(

[WebR33]

Hi everyone, ive got a series 1 R33. I got it last November, its only got about 75,000 on the clock at the moment. The other day i turned my boost up to 13 PSI. Ive got a cooler, pod and aluminium radiator so i was under the impression it should be able to handle the boost, but about 10 mins after winding it up, i was flying down a straight near where i live, and my oil light flashed on for a brief second and the car began to sound sick. I drove the car to where i had good light, popped the bonnet and my dipstick had been shot out, and oil had sprayed everywhere. My Temperature did not increase at all on the gadge. I put more oil in the car, turned boost right down and took the car home. I went through my coil packs, disconnecting them one at a time with the car running, and my 2nd cylinder isnt working, when i pulled the spark plug out, there was alot of oil in there. I know ive f**ked a bit up, but what i wanted to know about is, im thinking about putting in forged pistons cause they're stronger or something, i dont really know much but what else would i need to do besides the forged pistons to get it running so the car wont shit itself under higher boost. Also when i was lookin at forged pistons on the net, they had something about oversize n there were 2 sizes, +.020 and +.040. What is the difference and what would be better for me. also what are total seal gapless rings? What else will i need to do to the car to get it running sweet again bearing in mind i want the car to eventually have around 300 RWHP but thats not in the immediate future.

My email is white_whrym@hotmail.com if anyone wanted to talk to my personally, thanks.

[R31Nismoid]

you realise if your going to rebuild etc... its a 5k minimum outlay if your using forged pistons

[GTR_STEALTH]

The +0.20 and +0.40 thou refer to the diameter of the piston. They are an option as sometimes when boreing/honing a chamber you may need to get slightly bigger piston sizes as factory sizes may be 20thou too small for example. To determine which you need you will have to accurately measure the diameter of the cylinder chamber...forgot the name of the tool you use.

I think the crank is good for 300HP but not sure on that info...maybe someone can confirm. But you will be needing new conrods, bearings, rings.... Not sure on how good the heads are and what they can take but you may need to upgrade valves, valve springs, etc....

[grigor]

Not another one.

Have all you guys with busted pistons in supposed LOW mileage cars contacted each other?

Might be a shonky importer out there.

[BHDave]

I'd be looking for the culprit at this stage, while you wait for all your bits.

R33 on 13psi should be well into the rich and retarded section of the map, to have killed a ringland (most likely through detonation) really does point to a fuel issue.

Stock engine will do 300rwhp. Just get a wrecker engine in it.

[WebR33]

R33 on 13psi should be well into the rich and retarded section of the map, to have killed a ringland (most likely through detonation) really does point to a fuel issue.

Stock engine will do 300rwhp. Just get a wrecker engine in it.

About the fuel issue, what would be making it screw up? What would of been responsible for the oil dipstick shooting out and spraying half my engine bay with oil? I thought they could handle up to 14 PSI but it wasnt healthy to drive around with it all the time as long as u had a decent cooler and exhaust to back it up. I sort of thought maby may have been a small problem there that would of came out eventually but by cranking the boost it bought it out alot sooner, and probably to a greater extent. Do you think it would be better to rebuild this engine, or get another 25, and use mine for spare parts whats still good on it? Which would be the cheaper option? Thx for your help guys im gunna try and get a mechanic apprenticeship somewhere, cause i dont really know much at the moment but where i live its a hole, not really any imports around here, which is what i want to be working on. So you guys are a great help at the moment, i appreciate it.

Oh also 1 last thing, is there anyway to check if the kms have been wound back and if so, what can you do about it if they have?

Edited May 4, 2006 by WebR33

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Stock fuel pump?

[WebR33]

Stock fuel pump?

yeh its a stock fuel pump but the car hasnt had a great deal of work done to it so i cant see how that should be a problem. Ive got a cooler, pod, exhaust, aluminium radiator and thats bout it engine wise.

[blind_elk]

yeh its a stock fuel pump but the car hasnt had a great deal of work done to it so i cant see how that should be a problem.

It's getting old and less able to keep pumping fuel at full pressure.

Ive got a cooler, pod, exhaust, aluminium radiator and thats bout it engine wise.

Is the pod shielded? Without shielding, you are simply sucking on hot air from the engine bay, then heating it some more through the 13psi boost you are applying. Regardless of the size of the IC, you are never going to cool the air down to "reasonable" temperature.

The dipstick popped out because you (at a minimum) smashed a ring land on the piston. This allows the pressurised air/fuel mixture to get past the rings and pressurise the sump; the easiest place for the pressure to go is out the dipstick hole, along with all the oil.

[WebR33]

Is the pod shielded? Without shielding, you are simply sucking on hot air from the engine bay, then heating it some more through the 13psi boost you are applying. Regardless of the size of the IC, you are never going to cool the air down to "reasonable" temperature.

What do you use to shield pods, ive never seen or heard of them being shielded. Do you have to make them up yourself or can you buy them? If you buy them roughly how much are they?

[WebR33]

The +0.20 and +0.40 thou refer to the diameter of the piston. They are an option as sometimes when boreing/honing a chamber you may need to get slightly bigger piston sizes as factory sizes may be 20thou too small for example. To determine which you need you will have to accurately measure the diameter of the cylinder chamber...forgot the name of the tool you use.

I think the crank is good for 300HP but not sure on that info...maybe someone can confirm. But you will be needing new conrods, bearings, rings.... Not sure on how good the heads are and what they can take but you may need to upgrade valves, valve springs, etc....

In regard to your post stealth, boring out cylinders, gives the car a touch more torque right? Are forged pistons already bored out or can they be bored? Just for general idea wat would the conrods, bearings etc that you listed before cost roughly, just a general quote to give me some idea of the cash im going to need for this thing, also would i be better buying a new engine as opposed to rebuilding my one?

[blind_elk]

In regard to your post stealth, boring out cylinders, gives the car a touch more torque right? Are forged pistons already bored out or can they be bored? Just for general idea wat would the conrods, bearings etc that you listed before cost roughly, just a general quote to give me some idea of the cash im going to need for this thing, also would i be better buying a new engine as opposed to rebuilding my one?

The pistons fit in the bores (cylinders) - so they aren't actually "bored out". It depends on how much damage you might have done to the cylinder after you did whatever you did at the time as to whether or not you need to bore the cylinders. That then determines what size pistons you need to fit - but they always bore the cylinders by a fixed amount (they can leave them standard, or they can bore them 0.020" / 0.5 mm bigger or they can bore them 0.040" / 1 mm bigger).

You should be able to re-use your conrods; bearings, from memory, are a bit over $100 (per set). If you are interested, I happen to have a set of ACL forged 0.040" / 1mm oversize pistons for sale - PM me for details.

[GTR_STEALTH]

WebR33,

You mentioned this:

Do you think it would be better to rebuild this engine, or get another 25, and use mine for spare parts whats still good on it? Which would be the cheaper option?

I would say your best bet would be to get another engine cheap and drop it in. Im not 100% but im sure i've seen full engine with all bolt ons except turbo for about $1600 floating around...

These engines are pretty robust and unless you're gonna go for mega mega power then i'd say just do the swap over.

Also,

Just goin on some of your replyies you dont seem too educated on the internal parts and so i strongly recommend you give rebuilding a miss. Sorry dude, im not bagging ya or anything -dont take it the wrong way..... Im just trying to be honest and save ya from stuffing up even more which is not hard especially if you miss something as small as clearances of 0.010 of a mm!!! Rebuilding an engine is not as easy as it seems. (Although it sometimes is to some dammit! )

If you get someone else to do the rebuild then buy all means go for it...but it will be costly as it is time consuming and 'upgrading' one part usually means you have to do another.

If you get someone else to drop the secondhand motor in, provided you supply the motor, the labor shouldnt cost you more than $500 absolute tops!

Edited May 4, 2006 by R33_STEALTH

[GTR_STEALTH]

Originally posted by blind elk

You should be able to re-use your conrods;

Maybe not...If he's smashed a piston there could be a good chance that the conrod may have bent...

Originally posted by Web33

In regard to your post stealth, boring out cylinders, gives the car a touch more torque right?

That would be the stroke cheif....

Edited May 4, 2006 by R33_STEALTH

[R33sedanturbo]

here this might be of some use to u because u dont have any imports cars around and u need to lern i thaught this might help u on ur way to becomming a mechanic and help u fix ur car

there is a workshop manual for all ur car needs on the engin i have same engin as u and it is great for it

http://shop.importdriver.com.au/store/prod...ry198.inetstore

Edited May 5, 2006 by R33sedanturbo

[WebR33]

WebR33,

Just goin on some of your replyies you dont seem too educated on the internal parts and so i strongly recommend you give rebuilding a miss. Sorry dude, im not bagging ya or anything -dont take it the wrong way..... Im just trying to be honest and save ya from stuffing up even more which is not hard especially if you miss something as small as clearances of 0.010 of a mm!!! Rebuilding an engine is not as easy as it seems. (Although it sometimes is to some dammit! )

If you get someone else to do the rebuild then buy all means go for it...but it will be costly as it is time consuming and 'upgrading' one part usually means you have to do another.

Hi guys. Umm yeh i agree stealth, i got no intention of doing this kind of stuff myself cause i dont know squat about mechanics, just try to get a rough understanding of things thats y i wanna get an apprenticeship as mechanic, not to get a trade more for personal interest cause they get paid f**k all. I just wanna work out roughly what parts im going to need to buy and how much cash im going to have to need to get em. I dont wanna just fix my engine then have to go through and change shit later on when i get stuff done to it, thats y i mentioned i wanted to get round 300hp further down the track which isnt too hard out of a 25. I appreciate the help you guys have offered me, i never thought forums would be so useful. Thanks for puttin up with my lack of understanding and explaining stuff in detail for me. About getting the rebuild stealth, i was thinking if i get a rebuild, its done i know its all sweet wont have to change stuff, whereas i buy another engine, i dont know wat problems it may have. I basically just want to do this right the first time, so i dont need to worry bout it again.