Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my first dyno run on the R33 GTST done today. The results were a little dissapointing to say the least. This could be due to the fact that the dyno I went to reads low or my car needs an aftermarket computer.

Have a look at the dyno graphs and tell me what you think of it.

Only mods are:

3" Cat back exhaust

11psi boost (bleed valve)

K&N Panel filter in stock air box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I wouldnt be dissapointed tehre are alot of peopel posting optimistic dyno results the main thing is you use the same dyno to compare up grades.

its a pity you graph doesnt show your A/F ratios as this would show you how richyour car is running.

and s-afc is the best remedy if you dont plan huge mods as it makes the car more adjustable.

some dyno shops have to have optimistic results to keep people coming back the dyno that alot of us melbourne people reads fairly low but at least we compare against each other

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-201261
Share on other sites

Originally posted by benm

Im sorry but it sounds WAY low to me, with those sort of mods i'd be expecting around 155-160rwkw, but then again all dyno's are different they say.

Yes I agree. Which is why I'll be getting a second dyno run in the near future after I get my injectors cleaned and a full service on a different dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-201397
Share on other sites

Consider yourself lucky i only got 124Kw and i have a pod filter, 3"catback, Bleed valve running 10psi, and an SAFC. i was quite disappointed but the guy said my car was mifiring up top. and he said if i regap or change my spark plugs i could prolly get an extra 10Kw or something, he also said the car sounded like a Jet which is not good as it means its restrictive...and he said from his experience it looks like the Cat is holding the car back.. But when i got my car complied i told them to put a Hi flow cat on.. but the guy that tuned my car said from his experience it looks just like a cheap crappy cat!!!.. THE BASTARDS!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-201567
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest SupraChigga

My first post here and not a Skyline owner:o

Anyway, I saw DriveBai's post (not trying to get flamed or anything), but if you go here you'll see my dyno figure's.

DriveBai, your dyno tuner is right it must be the cheap cat, have you replaced the cat to a hi-flow yet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-286102
Share on other sites

I'm not real technical with dyno's or engines or anything but 1 thing i noticed is that on your dyno run it only got up to a speed of about 130km/h where as on mine (http://skylines.pnc.com.au/dyno-203rwkw.jpg) the speed got up to 180km/h in 4th gear.

Was your dyno run done in 3rd gear maybe? as all the dyno runs ive seen are in 4th gear at 180km/h.

Thats just my observation anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-286128
Share on other sites

I have noticed that many people say they assume their car has X rwkw or whatever ...they then go to the dyno and are dissappointed at the result. Most people over estimate their rwkw by a considerable margin...the car is still the same though, if it felt good to drive before the dyno run...it is still the same afterwards.

I have to say that dyno figures would have to be a very average indicator of on road performance...It is a great way to tune your engine but high rwkw does not by itself relate to a great drive.

I guess my point is dont be dissappointed in your car just because it shows some lower numbers than you expect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11631-dyno-run-results/#findComment-286151
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...