Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just recieved my ARC intercooler for my R33 GTR. The kit comes with piping and also some solid plugs to fit into the BOV lines. I am not sure if I should be installing after market BOV's or not. Will the Lack of BOV's cause issues?? Or is the a ploy by ARC to increase engine response...from what I can see the twin entry piping will not fit with the BOV return line.

Matt

ARC.php.jpg

post-2338-1146723432.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116354-arc-twin-entry-intercooler/
Share on other sites

you dont need to use that side's (the BOV side) piping. you could still use the standard one and then you wont have to worry about having to change BOV's or blocking it off. Personally, i would keep the stock ones on.

Not sure if I follow you guys. The ARC cooler kit has twin inlets. The associated piping has to have the BOV return pipe reomoved to fit. (from the two inlet pipes after the AFM's) Also the return BOV plastic pipe behind the intercooler has to be removed as the angle ARC have set the intercooler on is pretty large.(leaning forward)

I just finished installing my ARC intercooler. My initial impession was a massive increase in low to midrange and much sharper throttle response. After further investigation I found the car was running significantly lower boost but no loss in power. I put this down to much less restriction from the intercooler....which is what ARC are all about. At .6 bar in first and second the car spins up all 4 and changes lanes by itself. I haven't loaded it up in any other gear as the tuning is all up to sh$T now. I can't wait for another dyno run so I can over lap the two.

Conclusion <ARC are GODS>

PS this cooler replaced a TRUST item of same thickness

... if you're measuring _after_ the cooler, a lower pressure drop across the cooler due to restriction

should theoretically see a pressure _increase_ at the measurement point (i.e. higher boost) all other

things being equal. So in theory, your newer cooler could be a larger restriction, resulting in lower

displayed boost at the plenum.

All other things, of course, aren't equal. If the cooler is cooling better, you should have denser air

at the measurement point - lower volume - lower boost, all other things being equal (they aren't :)).

I'd guess that this is what's happened - did you happen to take any temp readings before/after the change?

ARC have a good rep for a good reason; shame their kit's so expensive.

Regards,

Saliya

Im confused?????

I understand that a better flowing core will flow more at less boost but you said you didnt touch the boost setting, or thats what I assumed. So from your theory, if you got an even better flowing core than this one boost would drop again without touching the settings? And that if you removed the core and ran a straight pipe boost would lower by itself again?

Transversely, if you fitted a restrictor with a 5mm opening your boost pressure would rise dramatically without adjusting settings according to your reasoning. Is that what your saying?

I thought what Roy thought and that if your new cooler flowed better that pressure would rise on its own and you would have to adjust it lower.

... if you're measuring _after_ the cooler, a lower pressure drop across the cooler due to restriction

should theoretically see a pressure _increase_ at the measurement point (i.e. higher boost) all other

things being equal. So in theory, your newer cooler could be a larger restriction, resulting in lower

displayed boost at the plenum.

This is exactly what i was thinking. As others have stated, less restriction in the I/C, will results in a higher boost level

less restriction means you can put more air through the piping and engine with less work in the turbo, so the more boost is capable. 8psi in a normal I/C flows less air then 8psi in a high flow situation. This is the same with stock turbos and higflow turbos.

boost is measured at the plenum.

boostd is a measurement of restriction, flow is what makes power. The cooler flows the same at less boost

I think we are missing part of the equation. You havent touched your boost settting. So say before they were pumping out 14psi measured at your inlet plenum. With the std cooler you may have had say a 2psi pressure drop. You may have foud that if you measured boost at the turbo outlet before the intercooler then you may have actually been running 16psi...only because of the pressure drop your engien never saw that boost level.

So you install a better flowing intercooler...so now that 16psi your turbos were having to pump out to see 14psi at the plenum will be more likely seen at the plenum. So that would mean more boost at the plenum.

So something isnt right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...