Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey nice timing, im looking to get the second set you got listed there, does anyone know a good shop to get em from and a rough cost, i asked my uncle who does rego inspections, he said he'd pass any aftermarket pedal as long as it has sufficient grip (meaning enough rubber to keep your feet on the bastards) and its not too over the top (sorry goth skyline drivers, no spiked pedals :P ).

yeah i had crappy ones in my astina and the grip mpart was just regular hard plastic, VERY slippery but 9i believe the momo use a proper rubber which squishes and gives grip like it shoul;d, but they also cost like $150 :P are they easy to fit ? as the ones in my astina fit on the bbrake and clutch but the accelerator just didnt want to go on

Here are the ADR regulations. So basically, as long as they are "non slip" and not just bare metal they should be fine. Most of them just bolt to the existing pedals..so is a DIY job.

SECTION K - Other Items  

Driving Controls  

All driving control pedal faces must have an effective non-slip surface or be covered with a non-slip material. All essential driving controls must function properly. Steering wheel rims, knobs and other devices which have deteriorated to an extent that they are hazardous are unacceptable. Steering wheel covers, if fitted, must be secure

yeah i heard drilled pedals are no good, but u can get same effect by having black rubber, looking like the black holes that would normally be there with the drilled pedals. It's even hard to tell from the above photo with it's rubber, or just a drilled hole.

  • 1 month later...

Well, I finally decided to go japan instead of italian... got enuf italian on the knob & steering wheel ;-)

ImpulPedals.JPG

I'm sure the clutch & brakes are ok as they got big chunks of rubber so they won't slip. Not sure about the accelerator as its bare metal.. I remember I've driven a car with metal accelerator, so I guess it's fine?

In my opinion accelerator does not have to be non-slip, as the crucial part are brakes (your foot slip and you wont stop in time and hit something) and clutch (your foot slip while you're in gear then car jumps forward and hit something).... but if your foot slips the accelerator, you slow down.

It's a clip on, so if I get done I can easily take it off with two fingers...

As I said I have driven a car with bare metal accelerator pedal, so I'm very sure bare metal is fine with accelerator. I think it was my first car here a 93 CE Lancer which I took it for RWC myself and the bare accelerator pedal pass inspection. Only clutch and brake pedal need the rubber replaced.

I've been pulled over by some nice cops (well if they were nice they wouldn't have pulled me over in the first place), and they told me as far as they know, only the brake has to have rubber on it

he was nice as he let me off having shiny metal aftermarket pedals with GTR printed on them, and I was driving with no shoes coz they were too big and too hard to change gears with lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...