Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey nice timing, im looking to get the second set you got listed there, does anyone know a good shop to get em from and a rough cost, i asked my uncle who does rego inspections, he said he'd pass any aftermarket pedal as long as it has sufficient grip (meaning enough rubber to keep your feet on the bastards) and its not too over the top (sorry goth skyline drivers, no spiked pedals :P ).

yeah i had crappy ones in my astina and the grip mpart was just regular hard plastic, VERY slippery but 9i believe the momo use a proper rubber which squishes and gives grip like it shoul;d, but they also cost like $150 :P are they easy to fit ? as the ones in my astina fit on the bbrake and clutch but the accelerator just didnt want to go on

Here are the ADR regulations. So basically, as long as they are "non slip" and not just bare metal they should be fine. Most of them just bolt to the existing pedals..so is a DIY job.

SECTION K - Other Items  

Driving Controls  

All driving control pedal faces must have an effective non-slip surface or be covered with a non-slip material. All essential driving controls must function properly. Steering wheel rims, knobs and other devices which have deteriorated to an extent that they are hazardous are unacceptable. Steering wheel covers, if fitted, must be secure

yeah i heard drilled pedals are no good, but u can get same effect by having black rubber, looking like the black holes that would normally be there with the drilled pedals. It's even hard to tell from the above photo with it's rubber, or just a drilled hole.

  • 1 month later...

Well, I finally decided to go japan instead of italian... got enuf italian on the knob & steering wheel ;-)

ImpulPedals.JPG

I'm sure the clutch & brakes are ok as they got big chunks of rubber so they won't slip. Not sure about the accelerator as its bare metal.. I remember I've driven a car with metal accelerator, so I guess it's fine?

In my opinion accelerator does not have to be non-slip, as the crucial part are brakes (your foot slip and you wont stop in time and hit something) and clutch (your foot slip while you're in gear then car jumps forward and hit something).... but if your foot slips the accelerator, you slow down.

It's a clip on, so if I get done I can easily take it off with two fingers...

As I said I have driven a car with bare metal accelerator pedal, so I'm very sure bare metal is fine with accelerator. I think it was my first car here a 93 CE Lancer which I took it for RWC myself and the bare accelerator pedal pass inspection. Only clutch and brake pedal need the rubber replaced.

I've been pulled over by some nice cops (well if they were nice they wouldn't have pulled me over in the first place), and they told me as far as they know, only the brake has to have rubber on it

he was nice as he let me off having shiny metal aftermarket pedals with GTR printed on them, and I was driving with no shoes coz they were too big and too hard to change gears with lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...