Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Has anyone used/got a Tomei HICAS Lock System??

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/60

I am thinking about getting one, but would like to hear of any experiences with them first..

especially:

1) Is it easy to install yourself?

2) Are the results noticeable? (worth the money) ?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated..

cheers,

-JD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117798-hicas-lock-system/
Share on other sites

Geoff is not making those lock bars anymore and no longer has any stock of lockbars for the R33, although he appears to still have some for the R32.

Anyways, you can still purchase a solid bar through http://www.greenline.jp

It is called an ESSENTIAL HICAS Breaker.

Anyways a little off-topic to the original question, honestly do a search as I have read numerous threads on locking hicas and plenty of posts on experiences with the Tomei kit.

hmm i was looking at the same kit and it doesnt seem that its a locking bar. Tried mailing them but there reply to me wasnt very helpful >.<

"tomei HICAS lock" in search function turned up about 3 mentions. But none explained how it would work considering it doesnt have a locking bar and the hicas system on the 32 gts-t is hydraulic and not electrical.

So any one who is more apt with the search control please post :P I know that its a relatively popular kit but basically i want 0 movement from the back and wanted to know if this woulda achieve it

thx

My Essential lock bar arrived today :D .

The Tomie kit just locks the hicas rams in the out position with big washers (sydneykid has a few threads on how to copy the tomie kit for free), but it leaves the entire system in place. But a lock bar drops the HICAS rack out, and replaces it, saving weight.

ahh icic, i cant see the hicas weighing more than 5 kilos so im not to worried bout that, ill get the tomei kit (i dont REALLY like removing things that dont came on the car standard) Tried pming GTRgeoff but all i got for a reply is "No" so either he doesnt stock them or make them or has none for 32 gtst

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
I heard the lock bar makes the steering feel heavy on the R33? Can anyone confirm if this is true or not?

i think you are confusing your power steering with your hicas unit....lol. If you remove your power steering, yes your steering will get heavy.

I had noticed no difference in the weight of my steering when my lock bar was put on.

i think you are confusing your power steering with your hicas unit....lol. If you remove your power steering, yes your steering will get heavy.

I had noticed no difference in the weight of my steering when my lock bar was put on.

Well yes I do know the difference between power steering and hicas, I have read and heard that once hicas is removed (R33), steering become a little heaver as Greg has pointed out :P

thanks for that info Greg

Edited by woolls
Well yes I do know the difference between power steering and hicas, I have read and heard that once hicas is removed (R33), steering become a little heaver as Greg has pointed out :wave:

thanks for that info Greg

maybe every car is different.... as I noticed little difference at low speeds

There is quite an obviuos difference between P/S and Hi-cas. When the Hi-cas is removed, some people remove the control unit as well unaware that it also has a role to play in the P/S system. The control unit controls the speed dependant power assisted steering (makes the steering light at low speeds and gradually assists less as you go faster making your steering heavier and giving more feel.). So when you remove the control unit, you also remove this function. so it defaults to the heaviest setting all the time!

Hope that helps! :wave:

Some extra castor on the front almost completely removes the heavy steering that can sometimes occur when removing HICAS. Usually it's only at really low speeds so doesn't bother most people. Extra castor is essential to help your car turn in properly instead of thinking about it then having a go a fgew minutes later :wave:

I tend not to respond to PM's. Nothing wrong with email.

The little black box thats a part of the tomei kit, when installed corrects the slow speed heavy feeling. I had heavy steering as my hicas was on/off, but i put the tomei kit in and its all good now.

No heavy steering at all. It still lets power steering errors apper though (as my speedo stopped working), and the hicas light came on.

This is better than just ripping out the hicas, and removing the globe from the dash.

This is better than just ripping out the hicas, and removing the globe from the dash.

Well, not if you are using it in a race car, which is the intended recipient for my bars that weigh 0.73kg and 32's can save over 20kgs with all the crap removed.

I only offered bars to road car drivers because they were so expensive at one stage and fixing HICAS can be expensive and is no guarantee it won't go haywire again at some stage. Unfortunately too many think it's just another piece of rice, but I do attempt to weed them out, usually the ones asking for pictures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...