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Thank you all who replied - much appreciated!

That said, being in Melbourne, Dr Drift seems to be the obvious choice! Is there any 'negatives' with remapping? - excuse the ignorance...I'm predominently into rotaries which basically means it starts & stops with a Microtech...hehe! I am not here to bag or support anyone...I just want some feedback preferably from those who have had this done and what is good/bad about it. I have a Q45 for my RB20, is this too big?

Once again, any help would be much appreciated!

Also, as ANOTHER side issue - I've been told by two separate reputable melbourne workshops that in their experience, RB20s can (& have) lunch themselves around the 220rwkW mark...is this true? Obviously there are those making more than this safely (as posted elsewhere here)...however its cause for concern given my power goal is at/around this figure? I can't afford to melt a piston just yet...!

Edited by 4doorHCR32

220 is a realistic figure with an rb20 anything more and you start to make it a lagmonster because you will need a bigger turbo.

remapping is only as good as the person doing it just like any

ecu. The negative with a remap is every time you mod the car you need a new remap. so if you plan consistant mods get a power FC.

Q45 is a big afm but it should work ok on the rb20. normally people use the Z32 afm as it is more than enough on the RB20.

Hey mate - cheers for the reply...

I should have clarified...I am about to buy a house so a remap suits me fine as I won't be modding the car for about another 12-18 months...at which time I plan to fit an RB25DET & 5 speed...hence my desire to go Q45 straight up...more headroom...more specifically, I am told cold start can be an issue?

firstly, as far as i'm aware sam was wanting to look into remaps for rotaries, so who knows might be something around the corner

you don't really want to push rb20's over the 200kw mark, it's certainly possible to get more power out of the stock motor however it usually means using a laggier turbo, And as any rb20 driver knows, they lack low-end torque as it is! (and you'll start to go through motors... i have a spare rb20det in the garage waiting to slap in once i blow up my current engine..... )

if you're aiming for above 200kw, it's probably best to use an rb25det (or rb26) as a starting point. They are much more drivable, and can handle more power. (even comparing sr20det to rb20det, the rb really lacks bottom end torque and drivability)

If you do go rb25det, i don't think you can remap them easily, so budget for a powerfc or some other aftermarket ecu. (if you are going to go for a MAP based ECU later down the track with rb25det, buying a q45 afm now could be a waste of money)

I agree with you completely - based on the extensive research using the ye olde search function here! I have a HKS 2535 at the moment which seems to be good for 220-240kW on an RB20 without too much increase in laziness...once again, being a rotor head, lag I am used to...!

My intentions are to fit the 2535, Q45 (and other support mods), remap it...make 220ish kW...use it for about a year+, then fit RB25DET/5 speed and also pop in a Power FC at the same time...but I (a) don't want to melt the RB20, and (b) preferably keep it driving nicely...am I asking for too much? It seems quite feasible...?

depends how much boost you run it on day-to-day. I'd tune it for 10psi and 15-18 psi, and run it daily on low boost.

some friends have been drifting rb20's around the 180-190kw mark and been blowing motors from time to time (usually due to crappy tunes though)

Yikes...this is all getting a little too involved now...it seems I am really stretching the friendship here with what I am asking of it all...hmmm...thanks heaps for the insight Merlin...nice ride btw...they look tough in red...!!! :D

just looking at the original post and reading the website... I'd avoid it as you send him specs of your car and he guesstimates a good map for you? What bollocks. Just because it works for some monkey in a similar car dosen't mean it'll work for you... very risky. Have it tuned in real time on a dyno.

The downside to a remapped ECU is that you have to remap it almost every time you change your car's mods. Other than that its pretty cost effective.

  • 1 month later...

After reading this

I decided to get this chip to

i've got excatly same mods as you (rb20det)

and it works perfectly

AFR's are spot on

the car cains so hard, soo smooth and fixed my stalling problem

i will post up a dyno graph when i get it dynoed at a proper place

Best 160 i've ever spent + 30 to put it in

Edited by DFAULT

What are the cheapest emulator you can get and what program are guys using with it. Does live edit work with a emulator. I have made up my own eprom burner but am having a hard time writing the info onto the eprom. I think it might be the printer cable geting interference. I have only managed to write one eprom successfully. Does anybody know. I have the $100 dicksmith eprom programmer and a $10 jaycar eraser.

After speaking to sams workshop it seems easier to take the car there and have it tuned with the emulator. He charges a bit for dyno time but it should be cheaper in the end than buying a pfc and having no knock retard and won't get through the epa.

If I get my fpr in time I should be going there this week. I'll let you know how it goes.Also I believe the factory ecu has more load points than a pfc.

Is it true that the factory ecu will fuel cut after 3 seconds as I found my car a phillip island going down the main straight or back straight at sandown would cut out in top gear around 6k and I would have to take my foot off the pedal and when I put it down again it kept on accelerating?

As for the chips I see it as being no different as buying a jap chipped ecu and using it. It may not be perfect but you don't pay perfect money for the tune either. Some people can't always afford the best and if it work good on them.

After reading this

I decided to get this chip to

i've got excatly same mods as you (rb20det)

and it works perfectly

AFR's are spot on

the car cains so hard, soo smooth and fixed my stalling problem

i will post up a dyno graph when i get it dynoed at a proper place

Best 160 i've ever spent + 30 to put it in

Good to hear you also got good results!

My car is still running perfectly. still very happy with it. the dude should give me a beer for sending customers his way :)

There is a guy that owns a bonkers metallic purple R32 4door with some stupidly huge highmount turbo and I think an RB24??? I can't remember your forum name. Anyways, I spoke to you in Homebush about 3 weeks ago and you said yoshitokio had tuned your beast. Just curious to see how many KW you were making. BTW your car is hella nice I dunno about the GTR badge though :)

  • 4 weeks later...

The downside to a remapped ECU is that you have to remap it almost every time you change your car's mods. Other than that its pretty cost effective.

I dont understand this comment because if you change your mods no matter what ECU your run your more than likely going to have to retune it.

Your always better off getting a custom emulated tune done instead of just a plugin tune.

  • 1 month later...
I agree with you completely - based on the extensive research using the ye olde search function here! I have a HKS 2535 at the moment which seems to be good for 220-240kW on an RB20 without too much increase in laziness...once again, being a rotor head, lag I am used to...!

My intentions are to fit the 2535, Q45 (and other support mods), remap it...make 220ish kW...use it for about a year+, then fit RB25DET/5 speed and also pop in a Power FC at the same time...but I (a) don't want to melt the RB20, and (b) preferably keep it driving nicely...am I asking for too much? It seems quite feasible...?

How is is going with this? I am really keen to see what sort of lag you get with a 2535 on the RB20. I am after sometning a little bigger than what I have and think the 2535 will do the trick. Have you had the car remapped?

Cheers.

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